[TR] Hood- Reid Headwall 2/18/2005

[skyclimb]

Climb: Hood-Reid Headwall

 

Date of Climb: 2/18/2005

 

Trip Report:

I went and soloed it!

Found ice for 2,000 feet with occasional neve to rest the calves! The shrund' is easily crossable. Get on it while its good.

 

 

Gear Notes:

2 tools

 

Approach Notes:

Skiies are sooo good!

[layton]

nice my brotha'

 

so how many times up mt hood is this, and are you sick of it yet? somehow i doubt it.

 

I-rock does not look "in" judging by the complete absense of any ice on march madness...then again it's not march.

[Couloir]

Nice!!

[Chriznitch]

good little run you have going the last couple weeks.

Keep it up in the drought-ridden northwest!

[corvallisclimb]

cool dude : )

[Juan]

Sky:

 

I was pulling out of the Timberline parking lot on Friday morning at about 4:45 a.m. and saw someone get on the snow and start heading up hill. I slowed down for a second, then headed off. Was that you?

 

John Sharp

[skyclimb]

Yeah Juan, that was me!

Were you driving a Subaru or something of the like?

[Juan]

Dark grey Jetta. I almost stopped and walked up to talk to you, but I had to be in Bellevue at 9:30 for a meeting and was tight for time.

 

I'm glad you did the route! I was trying to find a partner and couldn't get anyone, so opted for the easier Wy'East. It was fun, but the Reid looked much cooler in your pictures.

 

Keep up the good work; hope to meet you in person some day.

 

John

[markseker]

nice work skyclimber. we were party of 3 that began a few hours behind you, lost your tracks around the reid schrund, wandered around on the icy headwall for enough hours that we got to the summit under a bright moon vs the preferred sunset. too long of a day for our liking, but good conditions (for a team who knew the route!) attached is our redlined route.

 

which route would you say you climbed?

 

-anticlover

[skyclimb]

Thats cool

You took about the same line I did. I broke left where you broke left, but then stopped the leftward traverse somewhere past the 14a variation, and then took a tight-steep rime gully to the top of the crater rim as it was starting to get warm, and the rime shower began to commence.

You must have traversed left in a different spot than I did, because I was chopping platforms every 500-700 feet.

How were conditions on this trip compared with conditions you have seen in the past?

[markseker]

no idea what normal conditions are on west side routes, this was my first time. in fact we set out to do leuthold but thought reid hw looked good, schrund small (although one of our team fell in to the 10 feet bottom but was able to self rescue), so made the experimental move to reid, knowing it must be climed when early and cold. we had ice raining on us a fair amount, mostly from whomever was leading, but only a few big chunks that hurt. keeping head down was the norm for #2, #3 on the rope.

 

just spoke to pals who did leuthold yesterday, party of 6, reported mainly a problem of postholing, all the way from palmer thru upper leuthold col. they had new snow from saturday/sunday - never saw our tracks.

 

-anticlover

[CascadeClimber]

just spoke to pals who did leuthold yesterday, party of 6, reported mainly a problem of postholing, all the way from palmer thru upper leuthold col. they had new snow from saturday/sunday - never saw our tracks.

 

They were numbers 4-9 on that route yesterday, and should have had nice set of steps to follow from Illumination Saddle across and up (courtesy TPM). Worst postholing was to the hourglass. It's in fine shape from there- a walk up.

 

The upper buttress on Yocum looked tasty. Someone go get it.