Mer Posted January 16, 2005 Posted January 16, 2005 Climb: Shannon Falls-regular route Date of Climb: 1/15/2005 Trip Report: The falls froze! Lots of parties taking advantage on Saturday. The falls. We were poking around Lion's Bay and Britannia trying to ID things in the new guide. We thought we'd just stop and have a look at the state of the falls, but it was in, and there were parties on it. Couldn't pass up such a chance to go up even being late and last. As we were coming up through the trees we heard huge chunks coming down. Two parties at the top of the first pitch had been soaked with the splash and were spooked enough to come down. Ice came down the middle open channel. Aside from one crossing, most of the climbing on either side is out of the line of fire. The crossing is one or two quick, very aqueous steps that leave you, the ropes, and the gear lightly iced for the next pitch. The wetness Several easy pitches to the terrace where we escaped into the bushy darkness, leaving a final pitch or so for the next decade when the falls freeze again. Nearing the top. Gear Notes: Headlamp, lots o' gortex Approach Notes: follow the tourists Quote
Dru Posted January 16, 2005 Posted January 16, 2005 w00t Now you can call yourself a "true Coastal climber" Quote
Don_Serl Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 The falls froze! Lots of parties taking advantage on Saturday. Nearing the top. what a superb photo... it might not be a decade, but it doesn't come in very frequently, and this makes me wish i'd gotten outa bed early friday to solo it before work. a missed chance! congrats, cheers, Quote
Stemalot Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 w00t Now you can call yourself a "true Coastal climber" Not fair! there's gotta be other initiation climbs other than Shannon Falls! Quote
Dru Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 Tell it to Don, it was his offhand comment in the Vancouver Sun c. 1996 that set up this arbitrary and difficult-to-fulfill requirement Quote
Janez_Ales Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 My initiation came when Guy and I turned around on some top secret climb and drove by Shannon Falls at sunset. Guy asked me if I do have a headlamp? Off we were... I think it was 1996...I got the last pitch, but no Guy at the end of the rope when i pulled it up... After a few minutes of setting up a quick rap into the wetest ice = slurpie I have climbed until then, Guy comes up - soloing. It was good to see him... Quote
bigwallpete Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 Was on it ithe day befoe in pic's looking similiar to your pic's and decided to turn around because of falling ice and high water volume. When we got to the ground we were surprised to see a friend(respected coastal guide) backing off of a climb just left of Loreli Gully because of poor conditions. And made the comment to us, I only climb the falls when they are completly in because I have rescued 2 parties different occasions but similiar looking and it was some scary shit, With the ice falling down. Anyways just glad it worked out for everyone. Quote
Dru Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 Just like any one else guides will lie when its in their best interest, like for instance when they want to give their clients an easy out. I think it's funny how the westcoastice.com conditions report for Shannon says -" Update January 14 - that's it for the season" and reportedly half a dozen parties climbed it on Saturday anyways. Quote
Bogen Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 I think it's funny how the westcoastice.com conditions report for Shannon says -" Update January 14 - that's it for the season" and reportedly half a dozen parties climbed it on Saturday anyways. That is funny! Was A. Burke one of them? Quote
Dru Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 Are you suggesting Adrian would manipulate his ice site so as to reduce potential crowding on routes he plans to do? How diabolical Quote
bigwallpete Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 Those were my exact words quoted on Westcoastice with regards to the conditions on shannon falls. And I sent them with the intention of passing on my newly gained knowledge to help avoid any problems that possible may have but my friend at risk to help those not so experienced to decide for themselves. ENd of story I don't know adrian and evey email I send to him is uploaded exactly in my words. Hence the spelling mistakes. Quote
Mer Posted January 17, 2005 Author Posted January 17, 2005 The wisest thing would have been to get on it early before the day really started to warm up. The first two pitches were the diciest. We just crossed the water as one short pitch to minimize the amount of time that the ropes were exposed to ice fall, and we weren't dallying either as the ice was rather flowy there. Still, the universe could have dropped a big block of ice on my head, but I am humbly grateful that it did not. Quote
Bogen Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 I suppose I should clarify that was a joke. You only have to meet Adrian Burke, and see that cherubic, glowing smile once to realize what a nice guy he really is. Thanks for your efforts, Adrian! Quote
Dru Posted January 20, 2020 Posted January 20, 2020 This one oughta be one of those BEST OF CC.COM thingies considering how rarely SF comes in. Next ascents of SF after this were in 2014! Quote
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