Paradise to Muir- 12/30/2004

[kb0rrg]

Climb: Rainier-

 

Date of Climb: 12/30/2004

 

Trip Report:

Looking to go from Paradise to Muir over new years. Would I be ok in snowshoes/ski poles, or should I rope-up and plan on using ax/crampons?

[Alex_Mineev]

You will want ice ax and crampons. You will not need rope.

[russ]

but take your snowshoe and poles as well...

[pjc]

So has anyone been up there recently? I'm thinking of camping above Muir for several days; the NWAC data of course shows no snow activity...

 

I'm interested in the conditions as well:

What is it like on the approach, and how bad of a shape is the DC route in, in general? I'm not planning for a summit, but just to hang around 11-12k or so on the DC route.

 

Thanks!

[pete_a]

Getting to 11-12k on the DC route will involve crossing the Cowlitz glacier, and I imagine that there are at least a few thinly bridged crevasses lurking. Unless you've got partners you're tied in to, I think it would be a very bad idea go beyond Muir.

What does it matter that the NWAC data says now? The avy forecast can change drastically in a week and a half. If you are only going to Muir, the only real spot that is of any danger of sliding is getting up Panorama Point.

As of yesterday, the snowpack up there above treeline was soft spring snow of varying depths depending on how the wind transported it and below that spring snow was a very consolidated base as a result of the rains last week.

[pjc]

Thanks Pete for the reply. [Actually I'm not the original poster, so that trip date was not mine...so that's why I looked at the current conditions, since I was planning to go soon:)] Yeah, we'd all be tied in. But after further contemplation, and speaking with a few people, it just doesn't seem worth the effort to go up there; not much is in good shape around here yet...<sigh>.

[kb0rrg]

Thanks all for the replys

 

Nathan

[Mike_Gauthier]

The route to Muir was WELL establish over the weekend, there was a perfect boot track. It's snowing now, so it's back to the snow shoes.

[Greta]

Skinned up on Tuesday. Very straight forward boot track as someone else noted. You may have noticed that we are expecting precip for the remainder of the week, through the weekend and into next (ie. shitty visibility), so if you are still planning to go, I would recommend bringing a GPS if you have one. If not, borrow or rent one and learn to plot waypoints or you may have a hard time getting back down, depending on the amount of snow/wind you get behind you. Good luck and have fun.