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pjc

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Everything posted by pjc

  1. Suggestions for easy/moderate mixed climbs in Peru? Heading down there for climbing sometime between May and July, total time ~10 days. Other potential climbing targets include Tocllaraju NW ridge, but that is all snow/ice. We're looking for a climb that is similar in difficulty and risk to the NW ridge (low risk is important), but includes some rock as well. Difficulty ideally about the same as Contamine-Griselle on Mont Blanc du Tacul...so, pretty straightforward and safe but really fun. Thoughts or advice?
  2. I bought one to try on, but it didn't fit my head well and returned it. Did any of those rumors pan out for other new ultralight helmets?
  3. "I did hear that there will be a bunch of copycat helmets coming out this spring, using the same foam technology...but with more acceptable colors. " Mark, out of curiosity, do you know which companies?
  4. Thanks for the feedback. I'm specifically still interested in how it addresses #1, of distributing forces for example in the case of rockfall. It doesn't seem to do much good on that front?
  5. Cool, thanks for the feedback. Also, i'm referring to any helmet with a shell, eg Petzl Elios.
  6. (Disclosure: posted this to SP.org as well to get as many opinions as possible) I've heard the two main prevailing thoughts of helmet manufacturers, for what a hard plastic shell does as opposed to just a foam helmet: 1. distributes force over the entire head, vs just impact point -- foam would just deform in that region without the shell. 2. keeps foam intact over multiple impacts. I've used the Petzl Elios for this reason, but am going to replace it given that its near the end of its life. I'm looking at the Petzl Sirocco. Petzl claims a safe mountaineering helmet due to the foam remaining intact over multiple impacts, but i don't see how this helmet addresses point #1. Anyone have insight into the safety of the Sirocco vs hard shell? http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/vertica ... ts/sirocco
  7. A friend lost a pair of Black Diamond contact strap crampons, does anyone have a pair for sale? The condition is not too important as long as it is safe and fully functional. A roughly equivalent model (Grivel, Petzl, etc) could work too. Thanks!
  8. Ha, thanks Atreides:D The paraphrasing was hilarious. Anyways, before posting I read all trip report from the last several years (the Search seemed to freeze after 4 years though), but those of course don't give info on recent conditions, for example, on the eliot.
  9. We're looking to climb on hood around the week of march 20 or so. Anyone have recommendation as to what route might fit the bill based on current conditions? We're looking for something that can be done in a long day (could maybe be two days, not two long days though), that has a few fun and mellow ice pitches, maybe some rock, and glacier travel. So basically a relaxing fun mix. My thoughts so far are eliot, leuthold's, reid headwall (cooper might be an option but that doesn't seem as interesting). Not sure why reid's has a low score on SP compared to the others though. Any advice would be appreciated!
  10. On a related note, if anyone's interested in purchasing a Venom, I have a brand new and unused 57cm Venom Hammer with tags that I'm selling.
  11. Alpinfox (and others), regarding the review you posted. I'm under the impression that for safe rope handling (i.e. handle high loads of a pulley system) the pulley diameter has to be a few times the rope diameter. The DMM Revolvers are just 10mm diam, so that'd stress the rope quite a bit. Thoughts?
  12. pjc

    WTB: Tent...

    Thanks Kathy; but that's basically more expensive than the full retail price (Tent + vestibule is about $725 brand new). Tomtom, any good walmart tent you recommend?
  13. pjc

    WTB: Tent...

    I'm looking for a new tent, from the following list. If anyone has either of these for sale, I might be interested in buying it. Integral Designs MK3 Bibler/BD Eldorado GoLite Valhalla 2+ Nemo Tenshi Lightwave G2 ultra Terra Nova Gemini Terra Nova Superlight Quasar
  14. [Mods: Posted in Lost and Found as well, so if this is out of place here, please delete...] In case anyone's going to be around the base of Corrugation Corner at Lover's Leap in the near future, and finds a pair of prescription glasses, please let me know... Mine fell off at the second belay on Sunday, and seemed to bounce all the way down. Doubtful the lenses survived, but the frames might have. Thanks!
  15. In case anyone's going to be around the base of Corrugation Corner at Lover's Leap in the near future, and finds a pair of prescription glasses, please let me know... Mine fell off at the second belay on Sunday, and seemed to bounce all the way down. Doubtful the lenses survived, but the frames might have. Thanks!
  16. Cool. I sent you a PM...
  17. Seeking a cheaper option than spending $20 online to get a quark grip rest... Anyone not need theirs anymore and are willing to sell?
  18. Per the title--looking to replace the adze with a hammer on my straight-shaft BD black prophet... Let me know if you have a hammer you want to get rid of! (And by get rid of, I mean sell to me.) Again, not the tool, just the attachment.
  19. My sister once lost her wedding ring ring while snowshoeing in deep, fresh, powdery snow at Willamette Pass in oregon (There is a post somewhere on here about that). After searching with SAR for it for hours, declared it lost--and posted signs everywhere and gave SAR the description. Would you believe that months later, when the snow melted out, someone found it, and actually returned it while not accepting any reward?! So post some notes at trailheads, tell the rangers around there, etc.--it's possible you will be fortunate as well.
  20. Looking for small tricams (up to and including 2) to double up on these sizes. Let me know if you have any in safe shape that you want to sell...
  21. There is much hope for the other two. Regarding the two caves: We know they left for help after sheltering the first. Perhaps they were turned back, and tried to rejoin the snow cave. Failing to locate it in the severe weather, maybe they dug another cave in the vicinity. With 4 tools total, 2 could perhaps be left behind as they begin their second exit attempt towards the summit. Everyone's praying they'll be found safely tomorrow!
  22. So sorry to hear this:( [ He is with his Lord now; of this I know you, the family, are all sure. In his last few days Jesus was with him, comforting him all the way, ready to carry home his dear child. ]
  23. This last weekend I lost my glasses while descending Avalanche Gulch (I think) on Shasta. They also might be on the ridge running by the Whitney glacier as one approaches Misery Hill from any of the other W/NW routes. The chances are virtually zero that they'll be found...but hey, we recovered a ring after five months, so a miracle might happen here as well The glasses might be near the bivy site (trench) between Misery Hill and the Red Banks where we stayed overnight. The glasses have a thin silver-gray frame, and a somewhat more narrow lens (not big and round). They are Vogue glasses I believe. Relatively weak prescription. Anyways, if you find them in all the slush up there, please let me know! Thanks, Paul
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