Bogen Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Climb: Weart-Armchair Glacier Date of Climb: 11/28/2004 Trip Report: We, that is fellow cc.commer OlegV and I, left Port Coquitlam around 7 am, intending to climb the NE arete of Wedge (just north of Whistler,BC,) by all reports a class 3 snow and ice climb. This is what happened instead. Oleg had never been to BC, so we took our time sight-seeing through Vancouver and the sea to sky area, arriving at Wedgemount lake trailhead around noon. The trail through the forest was icy, but very beautiful with an icing sugar coating of snow on everything, and no other tracks but ours. near the top of Wedgemount lake trail, Oleg takes a breather the view down the Wedgemount lake trail As the sun set, we arrived at the hut, which we had to ourselves. We had a quick look at our route before settling in for a quick dinner and sleep. The yellow line is the route we took, the red is the one we should have taken. Neither of them lead to Wedge. We didn't look at a map, or even bother to turn the page in McLane's "Alpine Select." We saw a ridge that kinda looks like the picture of the NE arete of Wedge, and that was good enough. A fine exploratory mission! We awoke at 3am, and left the hut under a painfully bright, almost full moon by 4. For the next 3 hours we experienced one of the most magnificent mornings. There was no one in the area but us, we didn't need headlamps to slog through the unsullied 2-3 feet of fresh snow. I don't have a camera that can capture the moment, but as the sun rose I managed to get a shot of the first rays touching the summits to the west as the moon still hung in the sky. full moon over mountains west of Whistler. As we carried on up snow slopes (Oleg is a machine - my lungs still hurt!) it began to register that the NE arete above us is neither "northeast" nor an "arete." We gained the glacier, and roped up to cross the snow bridge over a large crevasse, then a very short 50 degree portion to the smooth surface of what turns out to be Armchair glacier. Spying what might be a potential route to the ridge, we decided to check it out despite the fact that we did not have the equipment we need to tackle it. We arrived at the base of the ridge at 10 am. As if! Maybe next time. Oleg strikes a pose! With nothing better to do, we loitered, posing for pictures and eating as the sun peeked around Weart, bathing us in its warmth. Oleg had to try to capture the image before us, and I can't believe what he managed to do with my ancient 2.1MP HP 612. Weart on the left, unknown hump in the middle, and part of Wedge on the right in the background. the view down Armchair glacier. Shoulda brung skis! After a few frustrating attempts at glissading in loose powder and one rather too exciting glissade down a well packed gully, we arrived near the lakeshore shortly before noon. Spying some water ice nearby, Oleg was excited at the suggestion of trying it out and so off we went. Using an old straight shaft piranha and my black prophet, Oleg quickly learned the difference between hammering into thick ice, and flicking into the divots. Oleg on ice. We returned to the hut, cleaned it, hit the van by 4 pm, and Mountain Woman Burgers (2 each mmmm!) by 5:30. This morning I finally broke down and referred to a map. D'oh! Gear Notes: full alpine rack necessary to ascend the west ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Dude you were so fucking lost Nice pictures though. Did you not see Wedge and the incredibly obvious NE arete from the hut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogen Posted November 30, 2004 Author Share Posted November 30, 2004 No! We were "exploring." If we had so much as turned the page in the guide book, we'd have gone up Wedge. I had such a brain fart that even while on Armchair glacier, faced with what I knew was a westerly ridge, I kept thinking, "Man, this global warming is really kicking the shit out of everything!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 nice tr, nice pics too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Great pics, nice camera, perfect story Adrian! It's funny, all that time I kept staring at the broad snow slope of a high peak on the very right of Weart . It must've been Wedge Mt. Sh*t happens when you don't think straight. I loved BC after all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 You see that ridge right under the moon here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 We were so way off the route!! That crevasse field looked pretty broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogen Posted November 30, 2004 Author Share Posted November 30, 2004 Yeah, I get it now. We'll just have to go back. Maybe we can traverse Weart and Wedge in one go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 You did good! I am glad that Oleg like up here. Plenty of routes waiting for you guys! Keep up good work. Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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