Rainier on Thanksgiving?

[OlegV]

I am looking for partners to climb Rainier on a long Thanksgiving weekend. Any early winter Grade II-III route. Anyone with and without Rainier experience?

[Ovr40]

I'm interested. Here is a little summary of my experience so you can see if it fits with what you have in mind.

I have been climbing for about three years, and have summitted via the basic snow routes on Rainier, Hood, St Helens, Adams and Shasta. I am very comfortable navigating, staying warm, snow camping, etc, and am respectful, but not intimidated by, winter weather.

My goals this winter are to attempt some routes on Hood and Rainier that present greater steepness and difficulty, but I currently don't have much experience on such routes. I have done some rock climbing (top rope 5.8) but have never lead. I recently purchased ice tools and now have some limited experience top roping crevasses.

What else? I am active in the Ptarmigans mountaineering club out of Vancouver (Wa) and have taken, and later helped with, the club's mountain school.

I am 45 years old, but not too slow for an old guy. I can hike Timberline to Hood summit in about 4 hours, Paradise to camp Muir in about 3 hours, and Camp Muir to Summit in about 6 hours.

If it seems like we might match up, maybe we could do something with a little exposure on Mt Hood prior to the Rainier trip. I would definitely feel better practicing crevasse rescue before a Rainier trip, especially if it looked like it would be a two person team.

Lon

[OlegV]

Hey Lon.

Thanks for introducing yourself. You have a wonderful climbing experience. Let me tell you about my skills. I just moved from the East Coast (NY) to Portland two months ago. I started mountaineering a few years ago, did some winter climbs of Mt. Washington and Presidential Range in New Hampshire, High Peaks of Adirondacks (NY), Middle Teton, Shasta (standard route and Hotlam Glacier), Adams (Mazama Glacier), Baker (failed on Coleman Glacier). Also attempted Mt. Hood twice via the North Side (Sineshine). I like climbing solo, but it became very dangerous once I put my foot on the North sides of the mountains. I do very little of the rock climbing and have a long way to go learning ropes. I've taken a couple of climbing courses with Sierra Wildness (ice and axe) and Mountain Madness (Glacier mountaineering).

 

A big reason why we moved North West is its proximity to the finest peaks in the US. Of cause Rainier is the world on its own. Just like you, I'd like to learn steeper routes. I am almost 38, train daily in gym and on trails.

 

As for a training climb, I would gladly rehearse a climb with you on the North Side of Mt

. Hood (if it is not too far from your home). The advantage of the North side of Hood is its proximity to the road. It only takes about an hour to get to the base of Eliot Glacier. I never completed this route due to bad weather. Sunshine is not particular difficult, but involves few sections of steep snow and ice and plenty of crevasses. What do you think? It is also OK doing any other route on Hood or any other mountain

 

Oleg.

[Ovr40]

Cool. I will send a private message to continue this conversation.

[snugtop]

I like the long walks on the beach and romantic candle light dinners.

[John Frieh]

How about long walks on glaciers and candle lit bivys?

[Dr_Crash]

I might be interested. I have recently summited Hood, Adams, and Rainier through the easy routes (DC for Rainier). I have recently practiced crevasse rescue, though fortunately I haven't needed it yet.

 

I am younger than Long and climb a bit slower.

 

drC

[OlegV]

Sounds great! I don't think we're going to race up the Rainier. Lon suggested to practice crevasse rescue on Hood (Nov 20) before we go up Rainier. I've taken a long glacier travel course last summer and haven't practiced since. Should be fun. Besides, it's only an hour from the trailhead to the Eliot Glacier. I was gonna ask Lon if he wants to crush at my place in Portland a night before. Feel free to join us on Eliot (but you don't have to). Which route on Rainier would you like to attempt?

[Dr_Crash]

I'll look up routes. Ingraham Direct is the most obvious.

 

Which days would you go? I may have something on the 27-28.

 

RE: the 20th, I can't. I am flying back from Japan that day and need to be at Snoqualmie the 21th.

 

drC