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Posted

Climb: Prusik Peak-South Face

 

Date of Climb: 10/3/2004

 

Trip Report:

After Jason and I made our way down from Dragontail on Saturday we camped by a lake a little ways below Prusik Pass.

We must have slept right on top of a snaffle lair because we were harrassed relentlessly throughout the night. They seemed particularly attracted to Jason's pack, but curiously did not touch the chocolate bars that I left piled by my head. Maybe chocolate is snaffleproof??

Sunday morning we wake up fairly late and take our time making our way over to Prusik. We chose to do the original route up the face, with the exception of the first pitch.

I led the first pitch which was the 5.8 crack to the left of the chimney. Sweet pitch. A short rightward move brought me to the top of the chimney and to a belay above a shrubby pine.

Two more pitches and we were on Snafflehound ledges. Jason traversed right on the ledges and up some to below the 5.9 crack.

That crack is awesome. Steep, in your face right from the belay with hands, fists, then down to fingers and a little lay back thingy, super fun.

Jason led the last pitch up to the notch E. of the summit, where we dropped a little to the north then climbed a thin finger crack and a chimney to the summit.

What a sweet route, awesome cracks.

We descended quickly and made our way north then west then south and back to our packs, which contained, much to our enjoyment, comfortable shoes, food and water. Many miles and switchbacks later and we were at our stashed car at Snow Creek TH. What a killer weekend.

Ross

 

Gear Notes:

more ropes, more cams and more nutz.

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Posted

Way to take advantage of the great weather by logging some alpine mileage and bagging a couple of great routes. thumbs_up.gif Definitely a full value weekend. Out of curiosity, why did you pass up the short but stout handcrack leading to the summit from the notch on the S. Face?

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