Jedi Posted October 4, 2004 Share Posted October 4, 2004 Next April/May (3 weeks). AK grade 5, A2, 5.9/M5, AI3. 12,400' w/4000' of vert gain. 3 days up, one down. Then climb whatever else while in the area. Looking for motivated individual with with passion for the mountains and is confident on moderated terrain. Doesn't mind an ass whipping and goes back for more. "Light is Right" mentallity, etc.... I like long walks on the beach and candlelight bivies....Whooopps.....wrong website. Anyway, think it over and send me an email. Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 4, 2004 Share Posted October 4, 2004 hey jedi- i would strongly advise to find someone whom you climbed before with. alaska is a remote place- first of all spend some time with that person. are you going to be able to stand him/her for 3 or 4 weeks? second- can you trust this person when the "shit hits the fan"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedi Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 I hear you Glass. My problem is that I live in alpinist heaven over here on the east side of Virginia. I think there are more snow capped 6000m peaks in VA than there are alpinist. Oh yeah, there are no snow capped peaks in VA. SOoooooo..... my chances of finding a partner are sllliiiimmmmm to none. Why not try to find an internet date? Maybe someone from the east coast that I can climb with prior to heading north. Or someone from the west coast that wants to climb the Harvard, does not have a partner, has a solid climbing background and is honest with me and themselves. We talk on the phone often about climbing ethics and style and agree on many important things. I know I can lead every pitch (conditions & weather permitting) so I guess that adds to my confidence. They would have to have some idea what they were in for and I can't see why they would logically spend the money and time training just to camp in the Tok only to put themselves in harms way on such a serious route if they are not ready. People hook up in camp in Yosemite and spend 5 days on a wall together. I'm just an optimistic guy I guess. I've always climbed with different people an i am easy to get along with ending trips on a positive note (even when people have disappointed me). I can sit home next spring, plant grass seed, ride the mower, watch the kids get older or take a chance and get out there to do what I love to do. I just live in the wrong place to do what you guys can do EVERY weekend if you like. Climbers are a dime a dozen in your neck of the world. The only guy I have met in the Ruth from the east coast is Bill Gilmore and I think he has a partner. Everyone else has been from the PNW, Canada, etc.... Who knows, i could find the partner that I go on to climb many routes, in many different places. The I Spur could be in 06. Wish me luck Glass Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janez_Ales Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Yes, PNW has it all. U-Haul might be the only long term solution here. Saying that, if you drop by in Squamish or Canmore we can go climbing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 I think if you had some free time you might not due too poorly just going even if you dont find a partner. There are enough hardmen hanging out in Talekeetna and in the range at any given time that with some social skillz you might easily recruit a worthy partner for a shorter trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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