Impact of Primal Quest on X-Dome

[DJB]

It has come to our attention that a number of Washington-based climbers and environmental advocates have expressed their displeasure (both written and verbally) towards the general use as well as post-event clean-up efforts conducted at Exfoliation Dome outside of Darrington, WA, during and following the Subaru Primal Quest Adventure Race.

 

Because of the passionate interest level exhibited by various concerned parties, we felt that it would be appropriate to offer a written description summarizing the rigging, human waste procedures and clean-up efforts conducted by the Subaru Primal Quest Adventure Race organization and its representatives (SPQ) and permitted under the US Department of the Interior, USFS.

 

The race course included a ropes section held on the West Face of Exfoliaton Dome. The ropes and rigging started near the narrow access road at the base of the west face, continued up through the long granite apron and terminated approximately 175 metres below the true summit in the middle of a large headwall.

 

The anchoring methods employed by the riggers included traditional rock protection pieces, existing vegetation, rock masses and slung rock horns, previously existing bolts and bolts placed by the riggers.

 

There were two styles of bolts placed on the rig:

 

1. Expansion Bolts

2. Small rivets for securing edge protection.

 

The expansion bolts were placed in such a manner that the hole drilled was much deeper than the bolt itself. The bolts used were removable. The removal was made by tapping the stud into the hole (once the nut and hangar were removed) thereby causing the expansion seal to be broken. At that point a small 'cat's claw' tool was used to pull them out and then the holes were backfilled with granite.

 

The rivets were 1/4 inch studs that were placed in partially drilled holes so that they were quite simple to remove due to the fact they were only inserted around 1/2 way (for edge protection only).

 

There were a handful of expansion bolts that we were unable to remove without excessively scarring the rock (every single rivet was removed). It was collectively decided that the scarring of the rock that would be required for removal of these bolts was of such a magnitude, that the better alternative was to push the studs back into the hole. The majority of the bolts that we were not able to remove were on the steep headwall where no natural climbing lines exist.

 

We did not remove any of the existing bolts that we came across and there are dozens up there on the West face.

 

The risk management decisions concerning the rigging of the ropes portion of the race were conducted in a manner consistent with events of this kind. Conscious attempts were made to place as few as bolts as possible while still meeting our designed risk management goals and objectives, therefore areas that had any amount of fall were fixed to sustain our high level of safety.

 

As far as waste management, the staff used plastic buckets with plastic sacks to create small commodes at three different locations. The waste was flown out via helicopter sling load. Staff-wise, we left no human waste. There were less than 5 cameramen in the area and used the same waste techniques as staff.

 

The racers themselves used their own waste management practices. 1) Following LNT ethics, 2) Wag bags were distributed by race management at no cost to participants and collected at the nearest check point. (Full Environmental Ethos are available at www.ecoprimalquest.com.

 

Following the conclusion of the event, ropes and anchors were derigged, bivy sites were dismantled, the staff back-cleaned all flagging tape and did thorough garbage sweeps for candy wrappers and anything else that may have been accidentally discarded.

 

Aside from the climbers trail that the foot traffic established (which the slide alder will likely reclaim in a year or two), and the aforementioned bolts which we were unable to remove (which were masked as best as possible and which you could only see if you knew exactly where they were placed and were right on top of the placement), the site was left in good order.

 

The staff was comprised of climbers, guides and riggers. We all use the backcountry for recreational as well as professional pursuits. We also all embrace the attitude that you should make every possible attempt to leave a place with as little impact as is possible. We feel that we represented SPQ and ourselves well in that regard. We would like to think that the local climbers, environmental advocates and the USFS, would feel the same if they went up to inspect the site rather than blindly shoot bullets from the comfort of your keyboard. We are not claiming that we got every last piece of debris up on that hill, but every effort was made to do so and we know that we got a vast majority.

 

Collectively, our group felt that we made a strong effort to return the site location back to its original condition. Naturally, that is not achievable and you are left with your effort to mark your final result.

 

LNT and low impact ethics are not black and white. There is certainly a bandwidth of subjectivity as to what is the “right way”. We accept that there will be disagreement, because opinions on the subject vary greatly. We feel, however, that despite small deviations in opinion as to the “right way”, our effort was well representative of an LNT and low impact ethic.

 

As an organization, we encourage all concerned parties to pay a visit to Exfoliation Dome and inspect it for yourself. It is somewhat disappointing to be fending off accusations from concerned parties when the accusing parties in question reveal that “they heard” about alleged abuses on Exfoliation Dome. Speculation and hearsay only lead to disjointed discussions and conclusions. Thank you for the opportunity to offer our views.

 

Primal Quest LLC

[slothrop]

Thanks for posting, DJB. I'm glad we all got a chance to hear your part of the story. I'm sorry that you're disappointed at the controversy, but that goes hand in hand with staging an event of SPQ's magnitude.

[willstrickland]

Burt's pissed dude.

[Ireneo_Funes]

Collectively, our group felt that we made a strong effort to return the site location back to its original condition. Naturally, that is not achievable and you are left with your effort to mark your final result.

 

Naturally.

 

The question of how much damage (temporary, permanent, whatever) your corporation did to the area aside, I simply find it annoying that you decided to put this massive commercial event on in a place where people go to get away from that bullshit. It's arrogant.

[marylou]

I have had a chance to chat with a buddy of mine that was on one of the local teams. He was not surprised to hear that there was some mess left behind from the Ropes section, as apprently there was a bit of a bottleneck below the fixed lines as the guides held teams so they would have enough separation on the ropes.

 

He also indicated that he'd be willing to spread the word in the local AR community if there's a need for a clean-up day.

[cstemley]

Stomp,Stomp,Grind,grind,grind,were to next guys?Who us? Take some lessons from the Rainbow Family, they party with hundreds

[willstrickland]

Bump. Anyone get out there and survey the damage yet? Pics? Any other word from Superpoo?

[hopalong]

?