[TR] Mt. Thiassi- East Ridge 9/3/2004

[hoppity]

Climb: Mt. Thiassi-East Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 9/3/2004

 

Trip Report:

Ah, the long weekend climbing trip; so much anticipation. Sometimes expectations are met, sometimes they’re not.

 

Approach:

Brian and I set off Friday morning to Mt. Thiassi for a weekend of long approach and nice climbing up the Southwest Buttress (SWB). The road approach along the Hurly, Bridge River and McParlon creek FSRs were extended and bumpy but without problems. McLane’s Alpine Select suggests that a 4x4 hc vehicle is needed. Not true, those with 2wd will have little problem (it may take a bit longer on the climb up the Hurly but that’s it) so go to it. The reported boulders blocking McParlon Creek FSR at ~7 km have been partially removed allowing further access but the road is blocked approx 1 km before its natural endpoint as the bridge over ? creek has been removed. This adds about 1 hour of slogging on your feet (going in, you are fresh and could care less; coming out you are cursing a bit).

 

To our surprise there exists a great trail leading up the valley from the road termination. Well marked and in good condition, this trail brings you through open forest, across slippery bog-logs and plops you at the base of McParlon creek (~1 hour). Turn left (keep the creek on your right) and brace yourself for an hour or so of classic coastal forest bushwhacking. Eye whipping, alder in your teeth, and more slippery death-logs. We were eventually rewarded by a beautiful alpine valley where a good camp exists beside the creek at tree line. 3.25 hours total.

 

Climbing:

Saturday = rain. We hiked up to McParlon Glacier and got wet. We returned to camp and got wet. We waited for the rain to stop and got wet. Did I mention it was wet?

 

Sunday, hiking by 4:30 am, reached the base of the SWB at 6:45. Hmmm, that route looks a bit mossy in the cracks; lots of lichen too. A closer look sealed our fate: icy granite, icy lichen. Fun, icy 10a climbing on lichen at -4o C with cold feet in rock shoes and mossy cracks. We went up the East Ridge instead. Leaving a trail of jetsam (rock shoes, crampons, lead rack etc.) we scampered up and along the Ridge. Great exposure, 4 inches of snow, fun moves inspiring some less-than-graceful solutions. Placed one piece of gear just below the summit on a chossy low 5th class section. Said cheese on the summit and headed home. Then we hit the bottleneck. Given the remoteness of this summit we laughed as we bumped into a party of three and a second party of two; 7 of us all within the same 30 ft of rock. Who woulda thought? Graeme and Chris had attempted a new route up a dihedral on the south face but retreated b/c of icy, mossy conditions.

 

We chatted and heckled and then went down making sure we stopped in their base camp where they were adamant there was no Scotch. Summit day from tree line = 12 hours return, taking our time and scoping routes up the south face. Be sure to enjoy the nuances of the boulder hopping enduro on the descent. We packed camp and were back at the car 2 hours later enjoying a frosty brew.

 

Summary:

Approach not so bad. Don’t need 4wd, good trail, short and spicy bushwhack. Beautiful terrain. SWB a bit more vegetation than optimal and not fun when icy. Climb this route when warm and sunny. East Ridge is nice with fun moves and perfect exposure. A good breakfast at the Gold Bridge Hotel will fatten you up again.

 

Barry Mason, Vancouver

[Stemalot]

nice. a friend of mine and I were thinking about this peak for the same weekend. but we went to Squamish instead in fear of lousy weather.

[jordop]

Ahh, I like it! Thanks for the approach info. Funny to hear the SW butt was mossy? Didn't seem like TD- when I was at the base of it in March: (the RH ridge in photo)

Was the fixed rope still there at the crux on the E ridge?

[PaulB]

Good job! After skiing in the area this spring, and scouting out the McParlon Creek road earlier in the summer, I've put an ascent of Thiassi on my "to do" list.

 

Unlike Jordop, I waited until the end of a most excellent ski run down the glacier to take pictures. His legs must have been tired from the climb up.

 

To our surprise there exists a great trail leading up the valley from the road termination.

The trail (and some bushwacking) leads to the Pebble Creek cabin in Ash Pass. A great base for ski adventures, but not so convenient for ascents of Thiassi as you'd have to go up, over, and back down the significant ridge between the Pebble and McParlon glaciers. Easy and fun on skis, not so much on foot.

 

We hiked up to McParlon Glacier and got wet. We returned to camp and got wet. We waited for the rain to stop and got wet. Did I mention it was wet?

Knowing that the hut was so close (and yet so far away) would make this even more miserable.

[Janez_Ales]

Met Graeme and Chris on Saturday morning at Railroad Pass and was thinking about their iced up rock climb while I was running around with another Chris between the bumps of Face Mt. and Locomotive as a part of a large VOC Mountaineering Camp. Most people ascended Locomotive.

On our way out on Monday morning we met a group of a dozen women hiking up. It must have been the Monday morning rush hour...

 

;~J

[hoppity]

Jordop and PaulB, thanks for great pics, i haven't tried posting my shots yet. next lunch break i get...

 

we didn't come across any fixed rope on the ridge. the hut info is appreciated, must go back for freshies when the snow flies.

 

 

cheers and enjoy the pnw rain.