Rainy day epics part II

[JasonG]

We had grand plans to do the enchainment, but got as far as Tszil, Rex's Pillar and the normal route on Matier (the shrunds looked bad from below on the north face route, turns out they would have been fine when looking down from above) before bailing partway up the south buttress on Joffre. Some T-storms were drifting our way and we thought it better to bail (probably if we were honest the real reason is we were tired and not feeling spunky enought to lead the 5.8 step in boots). Still, it was a great intro to the area and I would like to return for some of the other routes detailed in "Alpine Select". Spectacular country with miles and miles of mountains all around!

[Cpt.Caveman]

I'll be in there for some winter skiing while necromonimon is out killing himself on some peak.

[Guest]

Didn't get caught in any rain but saw some serious fog in my secret sport climbing area (boston basin).

Discovered a new way to catch and kill small rodents: leave a large horsecock (24oz malt liquor not summer sausage) out over night. Mice and shrews will be attracted to the sweet intoxicating liquid and will fall in and drink themselves to death. In the morning we had to shake a soggy dead body from the can. Not a bad way to go really, kind of like how my dad died.

 

Picture to follow.

[Terry]

We did Yak Check in blazing sun on Saturday sharing the lower half of the route with a couple from Winthrop doing Yak Crack. Even with Dru's advanced beta we bumbled the start a bit. Great route with small stretches of 'oatmeal', but not enough to avoid the climb. I'd probably suggest that the upper two pitches still contain some 5.10 - I'd rather do the route expecting 5.10 and get 5.8/5.9 than expect 5.8/5.9 and get 5.10. Next time it will probably seem easier. First 2+ pitches are stellar 5.6/5.7.

 

Four friends did the route on Sunday and were nearly hypothermic before getting off.

 

After beers at Skagit River Brewing Mt Vernon we were home by 10 on Saturday night. Drive is less than 5 hours from Tacoma.