ken4ord Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Climb: Forbidden-West Ridge (down NE Face) Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: Now That my foot is starting to feel better, been getting out on some of the easier alpine classics that I haven't done so far since I have been out here. This time around I recruited my friend Jen for a one day on Forbidden. We met up at 4am and began the drive over to the trailhead. We arrived at the trail at 7 and began the slog up. It wasn't that bad hiking in, it is so nice traveling light. An hour later we out of the woods and looking at what we going for. Really beautiful up there, and there was tame marmots everywhere up there as well. Can't remeber what time it was when we started, but I think it was around 10. There was no snow up in the gully so almost immediately we were heading left to the rock. The first pitch was the hardest part of the whole climb, maybe 5.6 or 7. After belaying that out we did a short rope running belay to the ridge. Once on the ridge we did two more running belays to the top. On top we met up with Joe and his partner. Joe was kind enough to take some pictures and send them to me. We talked about the descent breifly. We all decided to climb down the ridge a little way and do a single rap to the ledges. Well, it didn't out that way for us. We ended doing several raps and roping up for the fourth class across. All in all it was a great adventure. I can't wait to get up there and do something else on that mountain. And here's the eye candy: Here Joe's partner being a snaffle salt lick, wish I could have seen that one On the end of our first pitch on the ridge. Coming down off the West summit. Gear Notes: Standard light alpine rack, 6 cams, few nuts, 8 slings, single 8mm, crampons, and alpine axe. Approach Notes: Very little snow travel was involved could have gotten away without crampons, but they made the snow travel easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Way to go Ken and JEN!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Snaffles always start by licking you but we all know what they really want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swaterfall Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 yeah, they want to eat your bivy sack. snafflesdonotruleforlyfe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Last weekend I caught some kind of snaffle/rodent creature trying to steal my cookies while we "slept" 3 pitches up a climb with nothing around but ice and rock. What the hell the bastard eats besides my cookies is a mystery... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swaterfall Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 uuuuuuuuuummmmmmm... my bivy sack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Ken4ord, we must have run into you guys up there. We were descending the WR, I remember rapping right past a guy in a green helmet. Was that you? If so: . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Glad your ankle's in good shape. The east ridge is a good route if you get a hankerin' for Forbidden again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJScott Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Last weekend I caught some kind of snaffle/rodent creature trying to steal my cookies while we "slept" 3 pitches up a climb with nothing around but ice and rock. What the hell the bastard eats besides my cookies is a mystery... Atleast it wasnt gnawing on your rope like this one...We had 6 or so raps to do off of that rope when we woke up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 17, 2004 Author Share Posted August 17, 2004 Hey Cracked, yep that was me in the green dome. Were you the one at the top of the rapstation as I was going by? Yeah slothtrop, my foot starting to feel a little better. The last weekend I have gotten out and done some of the easier classics that I was saving for solo days, but they are perfect for the condition that I am in now. Still not 100%, by the time we reached the car I was pretty gimpy. Those other ridge lines look great, and the south face, though the South face look like would be hard getting through the crux. Next time, I think I would like to do the East Ridge and descend down the North Ridge, that looks awesome. Just some great exposure. ashw_justin I saw a little alpinmouse up high on the ridge and thought the same thing, there wasn't any plants or shit except lichen. Maybe they collect enough cookie crumbs to get them through the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 I was the guy with the faded orange pack and red shorts. I think I rapped right past you on that pitch. I swore I chased a mouse away during the night, but I can't say it wasn't imaginary. It didn't help that I had an Odwalla bar next to my head. Maybe the mice eat the ladybugs, there were a bunch of them on the summit. Weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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