Weart

[jmace]

Any one had a look at the N face of Weart recently, or been in the area and wants to specualte on its current condition.

 

Thanks in advance

Jesse

[Dru]

Speculation --> it probably looks about like the photo in Kevin's guidebook which was taken during a dry September. Its probably ice right now, not water ice but icy neve.

[jmace]

Thats what I figured, care to add any thing else about it, beta wise.

 

thanks

[Dru]

Once you get across the Schrund and/or missing section at the bottom (maybe a bit of rock up to 2 pitches and 5.7) it looks pretty cruiser.

 

 

It probably has less snow and more ice than in this photo (August 1 2000):

 

If you are iun the area the other options are the Owls north couloirs, there is a relatively easy snow/ice line up to the Owls/Weart col and just to its left the WI4/mixed line Guy E. soloed to the W shoulder of the Owls may or may not be in - you can see this line on p. 57 of alpine select as a discontinuous line right of the right hand owl couloir going up to the sunlit snow arete between weart and owls.

[fern]

 

tho I do not know if it gives a good analog to Weart, the NW Face of Castle Towers looked to still have continuous ice/neve and a passable 'schrund, but maybe as much as 2 pitches of rock at the top that was dropping bombs here and there.

[curtveld]

Once you get across the Schrund and/or missing section at the bottom (maybe a bit of rock up to 2 pitches and 5.7) it looks pretty cruiser.

Great photo. Anyone care to compare the difficulty of this route to the Redoubt NE face? McLane gives them both AD+, but Weart looks considerably smaller and less complex.

[G-spotter]

well ya it is about 1/4 of the total vertical of Redoubt...

[curtveld]

and similar in steepness to main snow face on Redoubt?

[G-spotter]

more or less... right now it will be easy step kicking the whole way