jmace Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 Any one had a look at the N face of Weart recently, or been in the area and wants to specualte on its current condition. Thanks in advance Jesse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 Speculation --> it probably looks about like the photo in Kevin's guidebook which was taken during a dry September. Its probably ice right now, not water ice but icy neve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted August 16, 2004 Author Share Posted August 16, 2004 Thats what I figured, care to add any thing else about it, beta wise. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 Once you get across the Schrund and/or missing section at the bottom (maybe a bit of rock up to 2 pitches and 5.7) it looks pretty cruiser. It probably has less snow and more ice than in this photo (August 1 2000): If you are iun the area the other options are the Owls north couloirs, there is a relatively easy snow/ice line up to the Owls/Weart col and just to its left the WI4/mixed line Guy E. soloed to the W shoulder of the Owls may or may not be in - you can see this line on p. 57 of alpine select as a discontinuous line right of the right hand owl couloir going up to the sunlit snow arete between weart and owls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 tho I do not know if it gives a good analog to Weart, the NW Face of Castle Towers looked to still have continuous ice/neve and a passable 'schrund, but maybe as much as 2 pitches of rock at the top that was dropping bombs here and there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 Once you get across the Schrund and/or missing section at the bottom (maybe a bit of rock up to 2 pitches and 5.7) it looks pretty cruiser. Great photo. Anyone care to compare the difficulty of this route to the Redoubt NE face? McLane gives them both AD+, but Weart looks considerably smaller and less complex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 well ya it is about 1/4 of the total vertical of Redoubt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 and similar in steepness to main snow face on Redoubt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 more or less... right now it will be easy step kicking the whole way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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