Botched Baker climb

[ogre]

We had done some other Cascade Mt. climbs but not the Mt. Baker climb.(via Easton Glacier route). We departed from the parking lot at around 6:30 p.m. and arrived at the creek crossing some 20 minutes later. The rains the day before had raised the creek level somewhat and the two other climbers with us felt a bit intimidated to cross there. We figured we could head upstream abit and cross and meet up with the trail agin. So we headed up. At around 8:00 p.m. we arrived at a footbridge that crossed to our left. From there the section of trail heading East seemed to be the appropriate trail as it headed up (or North) to the the glacier we needed to approach. So on we went. As the trail climbed we figured we were headed in the right direction and hurried our pace a little hoping we could make the 'high camp' by dark. The view of the mountain was magnificent which further inspired us to make the camp by dark. After another hour of traveling we began to wonder if we were on the right trail as this one seemed to descend and head away from the mountain. We ran out of daylight and decided to make camp via headlamp. Our spirits declined as we had instinct we were not going the right direction. We ate,talked briefly,then turned in, eagerly awiting the dawn to see just where the hell we were headed.

After a decent nights rest (as mt.climbing goes) we arose and determined we were not going the right direction. Figuring we hadn't the time to find the trail that would eventually lead us to the high camp we made way back to the parking lot. Of course upon our way we arrived back at that footbridge. Instead of traveling down the creek we decided to cross the bridge and find out just where this path went. Prior to crossing we could see other climbers traversing along the ridgetop above. We figured "THAT" was the trail we needed to be on. Sure enough,after crossing and walking another 15-20 minutes we came across the intersection of the the trail leading up to R.R. Grade and the Butte trail. We let out a murmer or two and continued our way to ............ the parking lot. We had two others behind us and figured it 'unprudent' to attempt an ascent. The trail led us back down to the 'creek crossing',where we crossed(the other two not being intimidated this time as the water level had dropped) and made our way back to the parking lot. Oh...... safe at last.sh%*!

In summary, I would like to say the following:

1. Botched climb trip

2. Next time we will cross the creek where we're damned well supposed to no matter who the he%! is with us.

3. Do not assume that "This path will meet up with that path".

4. Pay more attention to trailmaps instead of thinking "We'll just follow somebody up who seems like they know where the're going".

5. Sometimes it's ok to "nudge" someone who may seem a little apprehensive.

 

All in all you still can't beat the isolation and beauty of the mountains. We intend on making another attempt in a few weeks.

So how long(on average), does the climb take?

A. From trailhead to high camp.

B. From high camp to summit.

(via Easton Glacier)

And what is the best route?

 

Thanks for the great site,info,advice, and support!

 

Peace, Happy climbing!

The Ogre

[cluck]

Ouch - beaten by the approach to camp. That's pretty harsh, dude. The weather on the mountain was sweeeeet today too.

 

Better luck next time, I guess.

[Alex]

A. I think this took me and partner a good several hours, but the trail is easy to follow so you can easily hike it in the dark

 

B. Maybe 4 hours?

[cluck]

I guess maybe I could contribute rather than just giving you a hard time.

 

I've never been on the Easton, but I climbed the Coleman-Demming over the weekend and thought it was a great route. There were icefalls, seracs, giant crevasses, and other kinds of interesting terrain that while not presenting much objective danger were certainly cool to look at. From what I hear of the Easton glacier, it sounds like C-D is just as easy, but with lots more cool stuff to see.

 

It took us about 4 hours to get to camp and another 5 to get to the summit.

[ogre]

Thanks for the retort guys. We will be making the round again this weekend.

From what I understand veer left on the glacier to avoid the crevasses? 2- Is the trail easy to follow? 3- We are a 2- man party(I understand the danger of glacier travel with a 2-party team) How much risk involved on this route?

Thanks!

Mark

[Alex]

Mark, the Easton is one of the easiest routes in Washington. It is covered in Fred Beckeys Alpine Guide (vol 3). People climb this route often without incident, and its snowmobiled in the winter. However, it is a technical route where you will be expected to know what you are doing! When I climbed (as a party of 2), I fell waist deep into a hidden crevasse.

 

Any mountain route, especially up an active glacier, can be very dangerous. People get hurt and die on Mt Baker every year. No one here on this board will be able to mitigate the risks you and your party take.

[cluck]

Different stokes for different folks I guess. The Coleman was full of giant cracks and a couple of the snow bridges weren't exactly giant and concrete... yet we saw probably a dozen folks cruising through the route without a rope. Several using only trekking poles with no ax.

 

Having done CD Sunday, I guess my assement was that chances of falling in a crack you didn't see were fairly small, but I was happy to have a rope and 2 others tied on anyway.

 

We did run into a party coming down the lower section of Coleman who had a party member punch through twice not that far above the base of the glacier. Saw one of her holes... it wasn't completely obvious and anyone could have done the same thing.

 

Good news about Easton is that it is really busy. So it isn't like a rope team of 2 would languish beyond the reach of additional help..... but of course I would never advocate counting on others to help you out of any difficulties you may encounter.

 

If you and your partner can hold a fall,get in a picket and tie off the rope while still in self arrest, go for it. If not, think about it.

 

But, what the f*ck do I know.

[ogre]

Thanks for the feedback peoples! We're the 'go for it'type of people so off we go.If any of you would run into a couple o' knuckleheads, that would be us. Yeeeeehaaaaa!

Thanks again! The Ogre