[TR] Mt. Goode- Northeast Buttress 7/22/2004

[Sol]

Climb: Mt. Goode-Northeast Buttress

 

Date of Climb: 7/22/2004

 

Trip Report:

jshamster and I headed up to Goode on july 21st via rainy pass. the approach went well, pretty straightforward scramble up to base camp (just stay in the first watercourse). overall the route was very routinue, nice rock, long easy line. the only thing that surprised up was the ice cliff on the goode glacier to reach the buttress toe. It was pure water ice with a few 70 deg steps. we managed with no screws, no pickets, and raven pros but I would recommend one tool a piece (no axes) and a screw or two if ya don't feel like free-soloing. we descended via storm king col with the upper goode glacier being pretty straight forward and an easy exit ramp of low angle ice below the highest ice fall. 12 1/2 hours bivy to bivy.

 

Gear Notes:

small alpine rack, one 50m 9mm, crampons, ice axes (tool woulda been better).

 

Approach Notes:

long and hot.

[specialed]

Nice. Is it 15 miles in on trail to the base of the peak?

[jshamster]

Yup. And then a couple thousand feet straight up to the bivy. Super fun route!