[TR] Forbidden Solo- Up the West Ridge, Down the East Ridge 7/25/2004

[specialed]

Climb: Forbidden Solo-Up the West Ridge, Down the East Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Went to Boston Basin area on Sunday. Saw some big fucking snaffle Badgers who charged me, had to beat them back with my AK (X-15).

 

Ate some and soon I could see the glacier moving. Managed to put my ghetto old school crampons on and got caught in the momentum. Current was running up the West Ridge and down the East Ridge. Saw a lot of people and had some nice chats.

 

Was defenitly a 50 Crowded Classic. Good rock on the West Ridge, all clean from traffic. Seems like most people climb the shitty terraces on the east ridge instead of staying on the ridge proper, which is way better.

 

Went quicker than I thought, should have motivated for the whole Torment Forbidden Traverse. Chilled at the summit for an hour ... nice breeze, perfect temp. It was all quite casual.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

windshirt,

small axe,

shitty SMC crampons that I need to throw away, handfull of ... , shades

[Szyjakowski]

nice work

did ya see jeff and I on liberty bell?

i am pretty sure I saw you.

 

btw: i do believe that glaciers are always moving.......

[ken4ord]

Nice job, sounds like fun.

[petitdru]

What was the condition of the 'schrund / gully? Is it still passable. Would like to do route in a day and am guessing that having snow all the way to the top makes things a lot faster. Any other conditions info would be greatly appreciated.

[specialed]

Have some what of an altered recollection of that part of the route. However, W Ridge of Forbidden is always climbable. Even if snow is in pretty late season condition, one can always go around it on easy if chossy rock to the left.

I don't remember it being such a big deal though. If you put some strap-on crampons on your sneakers and have an axe you will be able to climb it easy.

Have fun.

[ryland_moore]

Let me get this straight, you hiked into Triumph Saturday, climbed NE Ridge Triumph Sunday, hiked all the way out, then hiked up into Boston Basin Sunday and soloed W. Ridge of Forbidden and back in Seattle by early Monday morning? You da Man!

[specialed]

No. Forbidden climb was weekend before last. Last weekend took all weekend and climbed N Buttress of McMillan. NE Ridge of Triumph looks like a fun day solo though.

[ken4ord]

Have some what of an altered recollection of that part of the route.

 

[layton]

What was the condition of the 'schrund / gully? Is it still passable. Would like to do route in a day and am guessing that having snow all the way to the top makes things a lot faster. Any other conditions info would be greatly appreciated.

 

SpecialEd was in "Bat Country" so i wouldn't rely on his beta. Poor bastard'll see em soon enough.

[specialed]

Nothin like a man in the depths of an ether binge.

[Jim_T]

The schrund was still passable on Sat although the snow bridge was getting very thin - it probably won't be around much longer. You can climb halfway up the snow gully until you're stopped by a vertical section where the lower gully sank about 8 feet. Unless this turns to ice and you can lead over it, you have to climb onto easy but chossy rock on the left to bypass it.