Conditions on Easton glacier / Mt Baker?

[Dr_Crash]

Hi,

 

A friend and I are thinking of going to Mt Baker this week-end. Has anybody been there recently and can tell us what the conditions are? We'll get beta from the rangers too and I'll post it here.

 

Thanks,

drC

[monkeyboy]

I climbed this route Saturday. A beautiful route in splendid weather. We started out early about 1:30 and were happy we did.There are a lot of crevasses on this route.But it isn't terribly difficult to navigate. At least in clear conditions . The snow was pretty soft and there were several snow bridges that were getting questionable particularly on the descent. One of the people in our party put a leg through one of these. Just make sure you are roped and know how to get out if you pop through.

[genepires]

Yup, get a early start and you should be fine. Stay on the railroad grade and just left of the actual ridge for as long as you can. Pop on the glacier and start out trending left till around the big icefall. After that, just follow your nose which should be pointed to the crater, bypassing nasties of course. There should be a nice little trail the whole way. There is a very nice coverage on the glacier but soloing it is dumb as nasties (crevases) are starting to show. I'll be back up there (with wands) this weekend too.

 

Rangers in the office don't know too much about the conditions. (except what gets written by climbers checking out, which is usually nothing) They don't even know where the toilets are up there.

 

see ya up there

[SublimeSalamander]

You'll want to start as early as possible. We started around 0130 and the sonw was firm. The a couple of snow bridges did get a little soupy and one of us punched through. We camped around 6100ft in one day we lost about four inches of snow so it's going fast. If you happen to find my camera up there let me know.