Ireneo_Funes Posted July 19, 2004 Posted July 19, 2004 I'm looking for beta on the standard (Southeast Face?) route on Warbonnet Peak in the Sawtooths -- has anyone here done it recently? From the descriptions I've read, the climbing route itself sounds pretty straightforward, but it's the descent that sounds a little tricky. For those of you that've done it, did you downclimb the last pitch and then rap the route, or is there an easier way down? Also any advice on the approach would be appreciated - it sounds like there's a few miles of cross-country travel to Bead Lakes. What's that like? Quote
dberdinka Posted July 19, 2004 Posted July 19, 2004 I climbed the standard route on Warbonnet two falls ago. It is one of the most memorable and beautiful trips I ever did. The approach is straighforward, the XC part involves a LOT of talus aslong with some nice nice meadows. No bushwacking. Still just a moderate day though to get in there, maybe 6-7 hours. (take the boat to start). I camped at the last of a chain of lakes in the valley below the peak. Granite slabs, larches and meadows abound. Very nice. The climb is very pleasant. Reminiscent of the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell in terms of difficulty and style. First pitch start seemed to hard to find and looking more intimidating that it was. Route is easily rappelled including the last pitch. Little bits of downclimbing between rappels. There is a very nice variation hand crack (5.7) to climbers left of the easy chimney just before the final arete pitch. For kicks I hiked out by circling past Upper Red Fish Lakes. Very beautiful area with essentially no trace of human impact what so ever. I would recommend taking your time and enjoying the wilderness aspect the trip has to offer. Quote
MCash Posted July 19, 2004 Posted July 19, 2004 http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/2199 Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted July 19, 2004 Author Posted July 19, 2004 Thanks, dberdinka. I'm really looking forward to my first trip to the Sawtooths -- getting away from the crowds. So you rapped the last pitch - that's good to know; thanks! Quote
dberdinka Posted July 19, 2004 Posted July 19, 2004 Just read the summit-post beta. Detailed to the point of confusion. Rapping the last pitch is no-big-deal. A little bit of tension-traversing and maybe a bit of down climbing with the brake-hand still on the ropes type stuff. It seems that one should generally avoid "free hanging rappells into the loose-chossy abyss" beta. Just a thought... Quote
dberdinka Posted July 19, 2004 Posted July 19, 2004 Just read the summit-post beta. Detailed to the point of confusion. Rapping the last pitch is no-big-deal. A little bit of tension-traversing and maybe a bit of down climbing with the brake-hand still on the ropes type stuff. It seems that one should generally avoid "free hanging rappells into the loose-chossy abyss" beta. Just a thought... I'll just add that the final chimney vs the sweet handcrack is actually really nice too. If you got some extra time do both. Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted July 19, 2004 Author Posted July 19, 2004 It seems that one should generally avoid "free hanging rappells into the loose-chossy abyss" beta. Just a thought... Yeah, that's what I thought too. The summitpost page was the only beta I'd seen on the rap down, so it had me concerned. It's no fun when the rap down is way sketchier than the climb up - though sometimes it's unavoidable. Quote
Ducknut Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 Ireneo I am in Sun Valley til Friday, can I bring you some info? Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted July 20, 2004 Author Posted July 20, 2004 Ireneo I am in Sun Valley til Friday, can I bring you some info? Hey Brad -- Are you working or vacationing? Either way, I'm jealous. If you wouldn't mind running up there and doing the route, taking lots of notes and pictures for me, that would be great. Dan Quote
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