forrest_m Posted July 16, 2004 Posted July 16, 2004 can someone who is familiar with d-town rock recommend some routes/walls that are mostly shady in the afternoon? i've been burned (literally) before and tomorrow is looking pretty warm. Thanks! Quote
JayB Posted July 16, 2004 Posted July 16, 2004 When I was there last weekend it seemed like the sun was off of 3:00 rock by early afternoon. I was wondering if this had something to do with the name... I will most likely be there tomorrow myself to investigate the matter further. Quote
hanman Posted July 16, 2004 Posted July 16, 2004 Baloney Dome can stay shady most of the morning. Several routes 5.9 to 5.10d on a nice almost Leavenworth style dome. Approach via forest scramble (20 min.) just to the north of the "first" granite sidewalk on Blueberry Hill. Routes left to right are: Yul Brenners Finest Hour 5.10 d Hoodathunk- 5.10 a 5.10ish project Baloney Pony- 5.9 Baloney Express- 5.10 a/b For more info, consult DaveW's new guide. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 16, 2004 Posted July 16, 2004 3CLOCK ROCK---is called this for a reason. witch doctor wall is i bet in the shade. Quote
forrest_m Posted July 19, 2004 Author Posted July 19, 2004 reporting back: we got a late start on total soul (3 o'clock rock) on saturday hoping for shade, but were in the sun until almost 5 pm! on the lower pitches, the rock was uncomfortably warm to the touch, but fortunately some high clouds took the edge off the heat. admittedly, the afternoon sun was somewhat oblique (not like the direct broiler action on dreamer), but still pretty darn warm. one other beta note, the highest bolted rap anchor shown on the topo (on the web guide), i.e. the only rap anchor not actually on the route itself, is there but hard to see. Directly below the first tree anchor is a second tree with numerous slings and rings. The bolted anchor is about 15' up and left from this tree, but it is obvious that many people don't see it and are using the tree instead. The tree appears to be plenty strong, but the bolted anchor is a better line - we had to reclimb this section after our 6 mil pull line tied itself into a knot on a bush just below the tree. re-setting the rap on the bolts was a much cleaner pull. Quote
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