Goode Beta ??

[obsydian]

Anyone have beta on the NE Buttress of Goode? Haven't seen any trip reports posted, Marblemount Ranger didn't have any reports, wondered if anyone has been up there recently? Planning on going next week.

[klenke]

Your only approach now is really only via N. Fork Bridge Creek from the trailhead near Rainy Pass (North Cascades Highway). This is because the road north out of Stehekin is too badly damaged for the shuttle van to be operable. You could still go the Stehekin way but it's 10+ miles of extra road walking. Might as well go the NCH way at that mileage. Other than that, I know nothing of recent reports.

[Matt]

Your only approach now is really only via N. Fork Bridge Creek from the trailhead near Rainy Pass (North Cascades Highway). This is because the road north out of Stehekin is too badly damaged for the shuttle van to be operable. You could still go the Stehekin way but it's 10+ miles of extra road walking. Might as well go the NCH way at that mileage. Other than that, I know nothing of recent reports.

 

Anyone know if this is still true? I plan on calling the ranger station, but if you've seen it first hand that would be great. Planning on Goode this coming weekend. I've got a partner, but if there are two who would like to join us and share the weight of a stove that would be great. Especially if I know you and have climbed with you before.

 

Beta?

[Juan]

Of course, they say it will rain into the weekend . . .

 

If the N.E. Butt. looks like a no go because of the difficulty of getting onto and across the glacier, consider the N.W. Butt. III 5.5; see Fred's description. Good route, and no need for a carryover!

 

John Sharp

[philfort]

Planning on Goode this coming weekend.

 

 

Sounds snowy:

 

TODAY...RAIN EARLY THEN SHOWERS... SNOW LEVEL 6500 FEET... AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES 45 TO 50. SOUTHEAST WIND IN THE PASSES AROUND 10 MPH SHIFTING TO THE SOUTHWEST 10 TO 15 MPH IN THE AFTERNOON.

TONIGHT...NUMEROUS SHOWERS... SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET... WEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 15 MPH.

TUESDAY...CLOUDY... CHANCE OF SHOWERS IN THE MORNING...THEN RAIN SNOW LEVEL 5500 FEET. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES 45 TO 55. WEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 15 MPH.

TUESDAY NIGHT...RAIN LIKELY... SNOW LEVEL 6500 FEET... SOUTHWEST WIND IN THE PASSES AROUND 10 MPH.

WEDNESDAY...SHOWERS LIKELY THEN CHANCE OF SHOWERS IN THE AFTERNOON SNOW LEVEL 7000 FEET. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES IN THE LOWER 50S. WEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 15 MPH.

WEDNESDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY... CHANCE OF SHOWERS THEN CHANCE OF SHOWERS AFTER MIDNIGHT. SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET.

THURSDAY...MORNING CLOUDS...BECOMING PARTLY SUNNY... FREEZING LEVEL 7000 FEET.

THURSDAY NIGHT...RAIN LIKELY AFTER MIDNIGHT... SNOW LEVEL 6500 FEET

FRIDAY...RAIN LIKELY... SNOW LEVEL 6500 FEET

FRIDAY NIGHT...RAIN LIKELY... SNOW LEVEL 5500 FEET

SATURDAY...RAIN LIKELY... SNOW LEVEL 5500 FEET

SATURDAY NIGHT...SHOWERS LIKELY... SNOW LEVEL 5500 FEET

[klenke]

Misery loves company, or at least loves Matt.

(What Phil said.)

 

Oh, and yes, Matt, the road is still washed out. Damage was severe. I saw a picture somewhere recently of roadbed scoured down to bare river side rock level. It won't be repaired this fall. I don't know the timeline. Call the Stehekin R.S.

[Alasdair]

I traversed below the glacier a few weeks ago and then saw it again from black peak a week later. I think for many people the glacier would be considered a no go. This is not to say that you could not get accross it. It can be done by a party experienced in negociating broken up glaciers. If I were going to try it I would get on the glacier at the far left at the base of a large rib that intersects it. This could have some pretty steep and hard ice on it, but it will be short. Go high on the glacier very close to the base of the rock and traverse rightward toward the NE buttress (this looked relativly strait forward). There looked to be a very large shrund between the glacier and the NE buttress. You may have to rap off of a bollard into the shrund and then start climbing the rock. Stay on the very farleft side of the rock rib until you gain a few hundred feet and then climb directly up to the ridge. Take real crampons and a screw and you should be fine. Except as has already been stated the weather is going to suck so go recon it and bail.

[Matt]

Misery loves company, or at least loves Matt.

(What Phil said.)

 

I've been having an affair with Misery for quite a while now, how did you know?

 

Planning on climbing my couch this weekend. I'm prepared for a late night bivy with the dog, cheap beer, and too much bad tv.

 

But seriously, there must be someplace that's dry.

[mattp]

Matt-

The hike in from Rainy Pass isn't all that bad and you can make your trip vastly easier if you camp at the base and then descend right back down the route. If there isn't some kind of rain and snowstorm happening, that is. Given what I saw of you recently, you'll climb both up and down 90% of the route unroped. The campsite belowt he glacier is

[Blake]

Misery loves company, or at least loves Matt.

(What Phil said.)

 

Oh, and yes, Matt, the road is still washed out. Damage was severe. I saw a picture somewhere recently of roadbed scoured down to bare river side rock level. It won't be repaired this fall. I don't know the timeline. Call the Stehekin R.S.

 

 

Klenke, I've got to correct you on a few things here. The Stehekin road is currently driveable (4wd not needed) up to tumwater camp, 3 miles below bridge creek. The shuttle bus is only running to the Stehekin valley ranch though, wich is 7 miles below bridge creek. Repairs beyond this point will be difficult, as you said. The road is bikeable to cottonwood, but you must eb willing to walk/carry your bike around some washed-out sections. BRinging a bike still saves a lot fo time though. Also, you can't call the Stehekin Ranger district because there are no phone lines.