Rooster Rock routes (Columbia Gorge)

[Ireneo_Funes]

I don't have the book in front of me, but I seem to remember that in "Portland Rock Climbs" Tim Olson mentions that there's some variations on the standard route to the top of Rooster Rock. Anybody ever try anything different than the 5.3 route?

 

I'm thinking that one potential route might start from the bolted belay anchor and go left, then straight up - but it's hard to tell from the ledge.

[bobinc]

If you like something run out with awful rope drag, near-vertical moss, and plenty of highway noise, you could try the east face. I did it 25 years ago when I was a clueless high school student and really enjoyed it.

[b-rock]

I think Nick Dodge's book has some descriptions too from what I remember.

[rbw1966]

Dodge's book describes both the east-side route and the route you are describing I think. I checked out that east face when Shred and I were there and it looked invigorating.

[cluck]

I tried the east face last summer that looked do-able. First pitch was easy 5th to a belay on a broken tree leaning up against the rock. It has several slings on it so it should be easy to recognize. After that the climbing got harder and the rock was unnervingly loose so we bailed and found the easier south side route.

[Ireneo_Funes]

Thanks for the information, guys. I don't think that I've ever actually taken a good look at the east side route, except a quick glance from above or on the rap down from the top.

 

I just pulled out the Dodge book, and I think that the route that I was trying to describe is what he calls the SW Face (5.6 A2). The rock looks solid but it's a little hard to tell. I imagine it doesn't get that much traffic.

[cluck]

Ahh yes. Now I understand what yer talking about. From the belay ledge the rock looks good, but peering down from the summit all you can see is super-steep moss and weeds in that direction. The start would be great, but the finish looked terrible.

[Terre]

After work we climbed the standard route up the south face today, ...and I lost a cell phone on the way up. (an embarrassing end to a fun day -- if anyone finds it or hears it ringing, would you call 360-342-5087? Thanks.

 

As for the condition of the rock today: It looks like there is room for several other variations to the Standard route. How about someone doing the rappel line (a direct line up the south face)? Without having actually done it but guessing only from looking at the holds as I rappelled down, I would guess the route might be 5.6 or better. Please let me know if the route has actually been rated.

 

Thanks again!