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Winter

What piece has saved your ass?

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#1 hex held a fall on the first climb I ever led and kept me from splattin' on the ground. Held my gf (now wife) after she did the same. She didn't have my faith and scraped down the wall rather than leaping like I did when I knew the fall was imminent.

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#6 slung stopper. One of the first pieces I ever bought in 1975. Used on almost every pitch I climbed. Held many falls over 20 years. Now resides on the west face of Upper Exum Ridge.

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It's kind of disturbing that you guys place the smallest BD stoppers (#1,2) on lead considering that they pretty much tell you that they simply can't hold a fall.

 

Dude I have had #1 nuts hold fall. Just gotta know what is a good placement and what is not worth a shit. Though falling on the tinys is not something I strive to do often. cantfocus.gif

 

Also never have fallen on a knotted sling, but have done plenty of rappels from them.

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there used to be this fixed rap in calico basin at red rocks off a knotted sling. you looked as you were getting ready to rap and there's this big ass water knot slotted like a nut that you're putting all your trust in...

 

but hey a rack of those is good enough for the elbesandstein so they must be bomber right yellaf.gif

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Those Elbsandsteinklettergesellschaft dudes are wacky. hellno3d.gif Very strange climbing. Often extremely nasty rock, too, from what I saw. thumbs_down.gif

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Yellow TCU.

First fall was about 30' and pulled a #2 stopper above it. Come to think of it, I think it is the only piece I keep falling on. I don't know if I should stop or keep placing it. confused.gif

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