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Methow Inspiration Route - Easy or Hard - Good or?


schnitzem

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I want to drag a friend of mine up this route this weekend and I have conflicting beta, some say that Burdo over rated the crux pitches and it really is only 5.8, others say it is 5.10 at the crux

 

....some say it is a choss pile..others a diamond in the ruff.

 

Any words to add to the others????

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I've done the route, and I think its a worthy route to do IF you are also doing other things in the area. Don't drive all the way from Seattle just to climb this route. I have other, better, suggestions for you if that's your plan.

 

As far as "hard/easy", I think that as its published, it is easier: there are a few harder moves to what I would call Leavenworth 5.9, but the climb is not sustained. There is one move in particular (a crux move) that goes pretty easy if you are 6' or over and can reach, but much harder if you are short. Most of the pitches are mediochre quality (compared to what you are surrounded with at WA Pass!!!) The last pitch is very good, though.

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I agree with Alex. the route is good to do if you get rained out of the Pass, but I would not drive there for it. As for the grade, its 5.9 and the rock is good but not as good as the surrounding Washington Pass granite.

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