[TR] Diamond Peak- Pioneer Gulch 5/1/2004

[JoeMack]

Climb: Diamond Peak-Pioneer Gulch

 

Date of Climb: 5/1/2004

 

Trip Report:

We started from a spot south of Corrigan Lake. Bushwacked up past the Wilderness boundary (~1 mile from cars) before reaching snow. We skinned through the trees climbers left of the main ridge. Some in the group bootpacked along the ridge and the postholing was pretty bad due to the soft snow. Got to the bottom of the SW bowl and aimed directly for the summit. Added my ski crampons after I began slipping. The crampons on Dynafits aren't great for steeper angle climbing, so I wound up kicking steps in the firm snow for the last 500 ft to the summit. We reached the summit in a little over 3.5 hours and decided to drop in on the East side. First few turns off the top were fun, but got very heavy/soft/deep after the first 700 ft or so. Climbed back out which was tough in those conditions.

We had lunch on the summit and it was breezy and a bit hazy. It was my first time on Diamond and I was impressed with the variety of lines available. After lunch, we hit the SW Bowl and it was very nice: corned up well and a good pitch. The cruise back through the trees in the heavy mank wasn't bad. Got back to the cars by 2:30 or so. An excellent day.

 

Gear Notes:

Skis. skins, ski crampons

[gapertimmy]

good job, it was damn hot on saturday eh?

 

any picts of the route or the ski? bug status?

 

the snow still seems to not be fully consolidated from the last round of storms, we need some good freeze thaw to set up dat corn!

[JoeMack]

I thought I was gonna melt as I was postholing up out of the East Bowl. The breeze on top felt heaven sent.

 

Sorry I didn't bring a camera, so no pics. The digital camera my wife has is too big (and expensive) for me to risk bringing it. What camera do you use? The BT pics look great.

 

The folks I went with have a lot of experience climbing Diamond and they were all amazed how few bugs there were. It made sitting around with a cold beverage after the climb quite pleasant.

 

We had thought with some cooler nights during the past week that the snow would have set up better, but it was just too warm. Definitely will have to get back up there this year for some corngasm.

[gapertimmy]

i use a nikon coolpix 4300, small light and takes neato shots.

 

let me know when you are heading up again, i'd love to tag along with some folks that know the mountain!

[Anna]

Good Info. I am chomping at the bit to take my friend up there next week! So is the snow melted to the Pioneer Gulch Trailhead yet? Went up there a few months ago and it was a no go...at least for her anyway.

[JoeMack]

Yes, the snow is melted out at the Pioneer Gulch Trailhead. You won't find continuous snow until a bit past the wilderness boundary.

 

Timmy- likely won't be getting back up there until June, but I'll let you know...

[snodger]

After abandoning a trip to Diamond a few years back (warm weather/rain forced us to Anthony lakes, whichwas great) i've always wondered how bad the route finding is through the trees. It sounds like you were with others who had been there before, but whats your take on the approach? I'm pretty good about keeping my bearings but lookin at topos it seems like it might be a bitch?

[JoeMack]

I was glad to not have to do the route finding, but I was trying to take mental notes as I went: From where we left, it was "follow the sun". Then it was "stay on the ridge". Once the summit became visible it was "straight for the summit". The alternative would be to stay on the ridge and follow it to the summit. There was a clear cut across the valley with a unique shape (mushroom) that I used as a marker for the return trip. Toughest part was the return through the trees when the clearcut was no longer visible. A gps would have been indispensible if I didn't have some knowledgable friends.

[spajr]

I was up there the same day. A GPS was very handy (but not completly neccessary) in the trees but once the summit was in view it's was pretty easy to pick a ridge. The ski down was excellent.