Rate the 5.9!

[ken4ord]

I know it's fashionable to knock Exit 38, but hey, it beats climbing in the gym on a pleasant weekday evening.

 

That's a close call. Sometimes the scenery is much nicer in the gym than at x38.

[oldfart]

Having graduated from U Colo Boulder in '75 and having done the Yellow Spur then, and Outer Space relatively recently, I can rate these two.

Yellow Spur in Eldorado Canyon is MUCH MORE difficult and lead out, dangerous and commiting than the trade route on the Snow Creek Wall (Yellow Spur involves some serious wide crack climbing above protection, all of it's pitches are long and real; whilst Outer Space is one of the "Fifty Crowded Classics" for a reason... most of it is hiking).

However, I can recommend highly: Yellow Spur, T-2, Bastille Crack, Green Spur, and numerous easier routes (solo) such as the Redgard Route.

The climbing in Eldorado Canyon is some of the best in the world! The setting, rock quality and general ambiance are not to be missed. Any trip anywhere near this area has to include climbing in Eldo, the Front Range and of course Boulder canyon granite (some of the best anywhere).

[andyf]

The most accurately rated route according to the calculation method is the Fun 5.9 at Royal Columns. (Check out the almost perfect bell curve) Since the actual identity of this route is uncertain I give the runner up the title: Moonshine Dihedral at Smith!PP

 

I think you're referring to Inca Roads. The route just right of the 5.11 face (Imperial Master) and ending at the same anchor, right?

 

As for Yellow Spur, are we talking about the finish that bails left below the final two bolts (above the fixed pins), or finishing directly? I think finishing directly up the bolt ladder is now considered .10b. I know it felt harder than 5.9 to me!

[Peter_Puget]

That's what I meant to say! The unceretainty is if that is what everyone else meant to say!

[whirlwind]

outer spce gets 5.9 only through the traverse

the uper cracks are 5.8-5.8 plus on the start of the last pitch

[assmonkey]

I didn't participate because I've only done half the listed routes, but that chart is fricking cool! I'm going to bring a calculator to the crags and adjust all the ratings by the correct multiplier.

 

"Dude, according to my multiple, this route is 5.93345...."

 

Cool thread!