Jbetoo Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Anybody up for the Leuthold Couloir either this Sunday or Monday? The guy I was suppose to go with has bailed on me the last two weekends, and I really want to do this route soon. Email me at Jbetoo@hotmail.com, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 don't climb if you can't arrest your own fall. if you can arrest your own fall, you don't need anyone with you on luetholds. if you climb leutholds, sans partner, on a sunny weekend, you'll in all likelihood have plenty of company Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbetoo Posted April 30, 2004 Author Share Posted April 30, 2004 Hey, thanks Ivan for the enlightenment on needing to know how to self arrest for the Leuthold. Geez, I just thought there was a safety net on the bottom or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 i don't know ... sounds like ivan's advice would hold for just about any route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 so you gonna climb it by yourself if no strangers step forward? partners aren't needed for much more than making conversation and stopping your falls...with the latter taken care of by your apparently perfect technique and the former always in question w/ a total fucking nobody, why sit at home if no one calls? that's my only point... oh, and you can probably fall the full fuk'n way down the coulior and live to see iain making faces at you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffh Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 what about having to cross the reid solo this time of the year? Went over it in early march without much concern but decided this morning in the tline parking lot not to go there for fear of finding a crevasse. It seems to be a popular rescue site this year. How late in the season could you "reasonably" do the Leutholds solo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 As always, it's a matter of how much risk you feel it is worth taking for such a route. Why climb it in off conditions? Luck becomes the deciding factor over skill. I slow down on the west side after April in general, and if possible, do that stuff in winter. It's just a lot more scenic and fun then. However, things like sandy hw have been climbed in June with good conditions. Hell, the old timers used to climb all that stuff in August. None of the incidents on the west side had to do with crevasses on the Reid Glacier. The bergschrund gets rather large, and cracks start opening up around the saddle a bit. There is no black and white go/no-go on that decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffh Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 Thanks for the info. Will probably focus my attention on other routes and save the west side for next winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.