Twin Rope Info

[lizard_brain]

I have a couple of questions about the twin rope technique...(yes, I have done a search on this topic and have read the other threads). I'm still wondering...

 

-Are 8.1 ropes big enough?

 

-How well do twin ropes feed through an ATC (both belaying & rapping)?

 

-Is rope management a major problem? Minor problem? Not a problem?

[IceIceBaby]

IMHO

For twins

8.1 is almost too big (in sum…larger impact force b/c clipped to the same pro point…lets not get in to it again)

They feed great… when you get use to it but it always will take some time to adjust to the feel

And you will have to be extra, extra careful about rope management. at the end it only a question of how big of a clusterfuck you will end up with...

hope it helped

 

[ 06-14-2002, 06:42 PM: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

[dberdinka]

I've used twin ropes for about 5 years now primarily on alpine rock climbs. My personal opinion is that they work great! I've got a set of Mammut 8mm and don't think I'd want to go any skinnier.

 

They belay fine, I've caught a handful of whippers no problem. The rappel really fast. Maybe a little too fast, but everythings a trade off.

 

I clip them both directly into the same 'biner which in theory is a bad thing. But I'm still alive and I haven't seen any damage to the sheath from doing this.

 

Rope management isn't a whole lot worse but you can end up with quite a pile if you're not careful.

 

One trick that keeps the ropes from getting twisted is, when first roping up have the second tie into only one strand. Once all the rope is fed out, then tie into the second. This keeps the two strands nice and seperate.

 

Have fun!

[Travis]

I have a 7.6mm sterling that I use as a rap rope, and for alpine climbing where I don't really expect to rope up more than a pitch or so. (I double it for leads up to half its length)

 

In my experience, it tangles like string; too light to coil/uncoil nicely.

 

In an ATC, I usually clip an extra biner somewhere on my harness to get a bit more friction during rappels. It's not absolutely necessary, but makes it a bit easier. I've seen people run both strands through one side of the device, which also seems to work. (I doubt that either Sterling or BD would recommend that.)

 

Belaying is less of an issue since you have more command over the position of your break hand. I've never caught a lead fall on it but have had to hold people on TR, and I don't recall any problems.

 

It's fine for what I use it for, but I would go with a double rope system instead of twin.

 

Hope that helped,

 

[ 06-14-2002, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: Travis ]

[lizard_brain]

Thanks for the info. The more the better!

 

Another question...anyone have experience using twin ropes that are slightly different diameters? Like I said, mine is 8.1, but what if my partner's rope is 8.5 or 8.9? Does it make much difference?

 

[ 06-14-2002, 05:07 PM: Message edited by: lizard brain ]

[Dennis_Harmon]

I never saw a rope get chopped in a fall until June 20th of last year when a friend fell off on the upper reaches of the west ridge of Mt. Stewart. The rock he fell with chopped the rope about three feet from his harness tie-in and we were very lucky cowboys. That convinced me of the value of climbing on doubles. Dennis