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I'll second the above comment about not scrimping on the down coat. When I went with RMI a few years ago, I had already climbed a bunch of volcano's and had everything on their list except the coat.

 

It kind of pissed me off that they required that I have one, but I rented one from them. At the first break, our rope leader suggested that we get our coats out so that we wouldn't get chilled. I put it on and sat on my pack and thought "WOW". It was just like sitting on my couch in the living room.

 

I had always taken a couple of fleeces and shell, but didn't like to stop long because of the cold breezes. I was so convinced that day, that I bought one. Now if you see someone sitting on a summit in a big-ass coat, it is probably me. It's the only thing I take to keep warm. Compresses well and doesn't weigh that much (even though it looks huge).

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