Alpinfox Posted March 23, 2004 Posted March 23, 2004 Climb: Smiff-Wartleys, Overboard, Morning Star, Heresy, et al Date of Climb: 3/19/2004 Trip Report: YO YO YO!!! MisterE and I managed to herd a couple of cats (Yos and GaperJeff) into the MisterE Van and rolled on South for a little Tuff Lovin' over a long weekend. Got down to Smiffy late on Thursday night so we could get an early start on MisterE's ultra-cool, ultra-secret, hush-hush new project. He cleaned it a bit and we each TR'd on it a bit and did some cleaning, but some gaper's were upset that we were dropping shit on their 5.9 wonder-climb, so we decided to cease and desist. Should be a good climb when it's finished though. We climbed some good schtuff, including "Overboard" which was one of my harder leads at Smith: MisterE must have been bored with the rock climbing at this point, because he climbed up this tree and we had a hell of a time getting him down. I don't know why he climbed up there. Maybe he was on drugs or something. He eventually collected himself enough to lead "Wartley's Revenge" by placing four pieces of pro and carrying a cooler full of beer to the anchors. He's got that climb wired. The promise of beer at the top was enough to motivate Yos to get up there in fine style: On Sunday Yos, GaperJeff, and I headed down to the gorge while MisterE went in search of unclimbed prana babes and tuff. I led "Morning Star" which thouroughly kicked my ass, and still felt hard even when I did it on TR. It's got lots of sharp, thin finger locks that you DO NOT want to fall on. It also has a really cool engraving in the basalt at the base of the climb: We headed home early on Sunday and entered some kind of worm hole, making it from Smiff to Seattle in just over 5hrs!!! WTF!?!?! I guess those portals in space/time open up for homies that be representin' Thanks to MisterE for the driving & evening's entertainment; thanks to GaperJeff and Yos for the rockin' company, great photos, and for putting up with the wiggers. Gear Notes: A laptop with DVD player in a VW vanagon = mobile cinema! Approach Notes: Yeah. Lots of snow. Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted March 23, 2004 Posted March 23, 2004 Errr. . . if that's supposed to be you on overboard, it's actually you on magic light. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted March 23, 2004 Posted March 23, 2004 You have just negated the young man's hardest lead to date; I hope you feel good about yourself, sir. Quote
Alpinfox Posted March 23, 2004 Author Posted March 23, 2004 Well I'll be damned! Thanks for the correction. SC, it's not my hardest lead to date, but one of my few 5.11 leads at Smith. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted March 23, 2004 Posted March 23, 2004 well regardless, it IS a wonderful climb, and I hope you enjoyed it! Quote
TimL Posted March 24, 2004 Posted March 24, 2004 Errr. . . if that's supposed to be you on overboard, it's actually you on magic light. I thought it was named "Traffic Light"? Quote
EWolfe Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 Nice TR, AlpinFox - I have some more pictures I'll add to the mix when I get home today. Had a great time Tim: Traffic Light Quote
Alpinfox Posted March 25, 2004 Author Posted March 25, 2004 I sent you guys (MisterE and Yos) an email with a link so you can see all the pictures on www.snapfish.com. Anybody know GaperJeffy's email address? Please PM me with it. Quote
EWolfe Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 Those dashing young men in the desert sun: Should call him "EuroFox": Check the jellyroll and poor rope technique on the Old Guy : Quote
EWolfe Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 (edited) The first picture actually has the Wortley's rack in it: 1-#3 camalot 1 - green metolius (.75) 1 - yellow alien 1 - green alien 7 draws. I ususally carry an emergency #1, but never use it. Edited March 26, 2004 by MisterE Quote
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