Devore Peak, Tupshin Peak and Flora Mtn. Routes

[summitseeker]

I am hoping for some good route information for Devore Peak, Tupshin Peak and Flora Mtn. from someone out there who has climbed these. One of you crazies into the 100 Highest could probably help me out. There is a bit of information in the Beckey, but it's not very detailed.

 

I am looking for easy routes over hard (scrambles over technical climbs). So, that's probably the Southeast Ridge on Devore, the Southwest Route on Flora and the East Face on Tupshin. Let me know if you suggest otherwise.

 

Thanks!

[Blake]

I know a guy who has done tupshin, who made it sound fairly difficult compared to the others you named, you might want to try asking for info in the North Cascades forum. If you want some fairly detailed and labeled pictures of the area check out the Summitpost.com pages maintained by Klenke for other peaks in the area (reynolds/maude/Emerald/Saska/Cardinal).

[klenke]

Summitseeker (someone I know?),

 

I have not done those three peaks you've listed so I hesitate to give you any information on them. My assumption has always been that the easiest routes up these three peaks are:

Flora = scramble

Devore = class 4 in hardest part (don't know how sustained that part is)

Tupshin = class 5 (maybe mid-fifth at hardest pitch).

 

I won't know until I get there (hopefully this summer) what really is the case for these three. True enough, Beckey's info is sparse, but you don't think he's been up there himself, do you? No way. His info for these is second-hand. Further, I doubt all routes up those peaks have been explored. The current "standard" routes described by Beckey may not necessarily be the easiest routes.

 

Some pictures of Flora:

from northeast

from south I

from south II

 

Some pictures of Devore:

from northeast (far away)

from southwest

from south

 

Some pictures of Tupshin:

from northeast

from southwest

from south (far away)

[summitseeker]

Thanks Blake and Klenke. It's awesome to hear from you both!

 

I've spoken to someone who said that Flora Mountain and Tupshin (via the East Face) are scrambles, Flora being primarily a long scree slog and the Tupshin being not particularly difficult (class 3). He said to definitely take a rope along for Devore, as the 4th class step near the summit is challenging and exposed. However, he did them both ages ago, so I am a bit leery of his information, particularly with regards to Tupshin. And again, not very detailed.

 

Yes, Klenke, I agree with you. Beckey's information has got to be second hand. I too am hoping to head up there this summer to climb these peaks. Just seeing the pictures you posted links to is very helpful, as it's the first time I have actually seen these peaks. Thanks. It's probably going to be a recon. trip, which is absolutely fine -- plenty of adventure to be had.

 

Perhaps we'll hear from some other folks that are also pursuing these summits or who have climbed them themselves.

[Superman]

My father has climbed Tupshin and Devore, but is out of the country until mid March. I'll get some info from him when he gets back in town and post it here for you. I'm interested in getting up there this summer as well, so the info would benefit me also.

[plexus]

So guys,

 

Did any of you get up in that area this past summer? I keep looking at a photo of Tupshin and it looks beautiful. Probably loose, but pretty none the less.