Dru Posted February 27, 2004 Posted February 27, 2004 in another thread lummox said just to splinter this thread: i reckon 5.8 is a weird grade. rarely straightforward. low angle enough so falls would be bad. the only stranger grade (and covering a wider range of difficulty) is 5.9. imho. In Australian grading system, there are two grades (15, 16) for 5.8 and another two (17, 18) for 5.9. Sort of like 5.8 and 5.9 - and +. Then for the 5.10 range, they only have three grades, 19, 20, and 21 cover 10a through 10d more or less. Depending which translation you use. The FRENCH grading system also has only three grades for the 5.10 range, 6a (10a), 6a+ (10b/c), and 6b (10c/d) Should we change the YDS? Split up 5.8 or 5.9 into two, and shrink 5.10 into three letters? Yes or no? Why or why not? Quote
lummox Posted February 27, 2004 Posted February 27, 2004 pay no attention to what i wrote. just deal with the climb at hand. Quote
lancegranite Posted February 27, 2004 Posted February 27, 2004 Godzilla?...hard 18, easy 19...nice climbing, it is. The pitch above is good 20, right off the belay... Quote
lancegranite Posted February 27, 2004 Posted February 27, 2004 Some friends said the crux was 5a/E1, but when my wife got to the anchors she said it was solid VIIb... Quote
Mer Posted February 27, 2004 Posted February 27, 2004 There should be an FA age adjustment index applied: 5.9 - 20yrs means it might be runout and feel more like 5.10. But 5.9 - 40yrs means it might be runout beyond sense and feel like 5.13. Quote
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