Red Rocks

[leithal]

Hey all, I'm heading down to Red Rocks in a few weeks for my first time and know some of you must have opinions on routes I shouldn't miss. Help me out! And there's no point in telling me about that stellar 5.12 offwidth I shouldn't miss-- I'm looking for stuff up to mellow 10's and confidence-inspiring leads up to 5.8. Muchas gracias in advance...

 

Oh yeah, and if you had two days and no climbing partner, would you a. explore Zion or b. explore Death Valley. I'm a wildflower freak and thought I'd just hike for a couple days... where to go, where to go?

[Marko]

Zion or Death Valley?

Abso-freakin-lutely ZION without a doubt! One of the most beautiful places I've ever seen.

 

Routes in Red Rocks?

Folks have given some great info on this site, try a search.

 

Have a blast!

[Rocks]

Just last week a friend asked us the same question, here is the tick list we gave 'em. They were interested in moderate trad and harder sport, and they never had vistited the awesome RED ROCKS of Utah.

 

In order from driving through the park. It’s a big one-way loop, and the cliffs I listed will be in your guide. There are several guides available.

 

Second Pullout (yes that's what is called)

The Black Corridor (Upper and Lower - both are good)

We've done most the routes here, all are worth doing. One pitch sport climbs grades 5.9 to easy 5.11. Can be in the shade as the corridor is narrow, but routes near the end should be in the sun. At lower on your left three new routes not in the Select guide go at 5.11b, 5.10c, 5.10A (facing wall right to left at the mouth of the corridor - all were awesome.)

Sweet Pain Wall (could be in the shade - afternoon?)

Routes are hard, but Sweet Pain is awesome 12a

 

Sandstone Quarry Area

The Running Man Wall Area (sunny)

Some really awesome sport climbs here, we only had time to do a few.

Red Heat 5.10C

Plastic People 5.10B (funky, but awesome)

 

White Spring (sunny?)

Tunnel Vision 5.7 trad, six pitches - popular get an early start.

Group Therapy 5.7 trad, but pitch two is really 5.8, six pitches just to right of the route above. (not many do this route, a good choose if Tunnel Vision is too crowded)

 

Dark Shadows Area (shade, could be cold)

Dark Shadows 5.8 trad, four pitches - awesome - rap the route

 

South Fork of Pine Creek Canyon

Cat in the Hat 5.7 just a couple moves mostly 5.5 & 5.6, trad five pitches. Rap route, fun, easy approach. Popular start early.

 

Juniper Canyon, Rose Tower (should be sunny most the way)

Olive Oil 5.7 trad, awesome route, removed and usually no one on this climb. Approach beta is wrong, hike straight up at drainage and stay on right side in gully. Longer approach allow 40-45 minutes. Walk off so you have to climb the entire route, unless you want to leave a lot of gear! Get an early start.

 

Brownstone Wall

The Nightcrawler 5.10A trad, take some big friends. Awesome, rap route, longer approach, 45-60 minutes.

The Black Dagger 5.8 trad - did not do this route, but our friends did and said it was really nice. This is a cool area up this canyon and slope.

 

Oak Creek Canyon

Solar Slab, 5.6 trad, nine pitches - come early very popular, walk off

Beulah's Book 5.8 trad, I remember climbing three pitches and rapping - can finish up Solar Slab

John Nevada 5.9, trad this route is just to the right of Beulah's and is not in the select guide.

All three of these routes are awesome - and in the sun I think.

 

Best thing to do is a long route first thing in the morning and if you have time left over hit the sport walls at the top of this list. Black Velvet Canyon will be too cold I think so I left it out.

 

As for hiking the big ditches - both are awesome. Wish I was heading out.

[lummox]

zion can be ugly dangerous when ice is falling from the cliffs. and it can be damn cold. check the precip.

[layton]

Big friends for Nightcrawler???

I remember using rp's and blue aliens and it also was harder than 10a my friend. Also one of the best damn routes around

[Jason_Martin]

John Nevada 5.9, trad this route is just to the right of Beulah's and is not in the select guide.

 

This route is in the new (2000) Swain guide and is actually called Johnny Vegas. It is one of the most popular routes in the area. The 5.9 part is a variation. Many parties elect to climb this route at a 5.7 grade.

 

Beware, March and early April is the busiest time of the year in Red Rock. Start early on multi-pitch routes and climb routes at grades that you are comfortable with until you get comfortable with the rock.

 

Jason

 

P.S.

The Red Rock conservation area that everyone is providing beta for is in Nevada, just outside Las Vegas. Not in Utah.

[layton]

There about as strict as mormons there, however. fuckers.

[Mer]

Do Crimson chrysalis! can't remember if it's .8 or .9, but it's a fantastic route. Ginger cracks right nearby is an .8, not as popular, not quite as fine, but it won't be as crowded as Solar Slab and Olive Oil.

[layton]

If your gonna do chrimson, I suggest walking in from the road before dawn to get on route OR better yet, leave you car at like 3pm. Crack of noon club is the best way not to wait in line.