freeclimb9 Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 two of us made the dawn drive to City of Rocks yesterday to enjoy some quiet sunday cragging. I thought that saturday's low temps (light rain and snow where I live) would have discouraged folks from the City, not to mention the typical remnant snow drifts and associated mud. I was wrong. I've never seen so many climbers in Idaho before. Climbers from Wyoming, Idaho, and Utah were crowding the cliffs with still more folks from Montana, B.C., Washington, and counting. We climbed some munge pitches which didn't have any waiting lines, then went and climbed the easy route on Lost Arrow --routes I hadn't done before which was great. While rapping the Lost Arrow, 15 more climbers showed up to join the party. And one pissed off german shepard. I don't like dogs at the crags. Dog-owners should put Fluffy on a leash like the law requires. Sometimes "canicide" is justifiable. And that would ruin everyone's day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 Some friends of mine stopped in at City of Rocks over spring break on their way back from Utah. They said it was an amazing place, and since then we've all been planning on going there for a week of summer vacation. Since then Rock & Ice published an article on City of Rocks, so it is not surprising that people are now going there in droves. It sounds like the place is turning into another Smith Rock? Sorry about the dog - doesn't sound like he had a very Fluffy disposition! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted May 13, 2002 Author Share Posted May 13, 2002 jkrueger, make your vacation to the City. It's a wonderful place, and after it warms up a little more and the snows melt, many will climb in other places. The City can actually be pretty grim on some summer days (90+ degrees). Gotta chase the shade. Autumn is also a great time of year weatherwise. The popularity of the City of Rocks has waxed and waned over the years. I don't think it'll ever be like Smith. And if you're climbing at a high level (5.11 and higher), there usually is no waiting for routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 When the time comes, I'll be sure to take you up on the guidebook offer - thanks for your generosity! I did notice this weekend that I climb better in the cool of the morning than the heat of the afternoon - and it was a mere 70° F. On the bright side, there is an inverse relationship between temperature and the amount of clothing that the craghags wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 Tribal Boundaries, 10a, City of Rocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 That definitely looks like somewhere I want to be! It seems I've heard there's a bit of something for everyone there - bouldering, sport, and trad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: That definitely looks like somewhere I want to be! It seems I've heard there's a bit of something for everyone there - bouldering, sport, and trad? There's a fun boulder traverse on Practice Rock, Tribal Boundaries is a stellar bolted face climb, and I really enjoyed a gear route called Bloody Fingers. Yeah, there's something for everyone. The standard route, "Skyline", Morning Glory Spire, City of Rocks [ 05-13-2002, 04:57 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir_Donald Posted May 14, 2002 Share Posted May 14, 2002 You've gotta do Skyline while down there, and there are also some good sport lines on that crag as well - just to the right is a 10b or c - 60' - fun climb - but the really odd sporto climb is shown in the picture there - 11c roof pull to the left of Skyline - you can see someone on it. The first time I got on it - when I got up to the overhanging flake/roof and leaned back on it ( it's big and bomber) the whole thing flexed out about 4 inches - it is completely glued on - tons of glue poured back in behind it, kinda weird - but it was a weird time back in the day it went in - all in all though a great climb. Enjoy it down there - go climb hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEF Posted May 14, 2002 Share Posted May 14, 2002 I was there for a week around July 4 in 97, and temps went from cold, windy thunderstorms in the 40’s to chasing shade in the 80’s. Showers were available at the store in Elmo. They sold guides then in the ranger station as well. Water is available at a pump at the end of the Breadloaves. Did Tribal Boundaries early one morning – we got there at 7:30, and had it to ourselves for 15 minutes. Then 4 more parties arrived. It's popular. Ditto on the Bloody Fingers climb, very nice finger to hand crack. Several climbs not mentioned that I liked were Just Another Pretty Face and Beauty and the Beast on Parking Lot Rock, and Scream Cheese. These are all in the 9’s and 10’s. Some of the formations do need two ropes to get off. Keep that in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted May 14, 2002 Share Posted May 14, 2002 Thanks for the info. I'm not sure when we'll be going, as we're still trying to synchronize multiple schedules, but I imagine we'll be chasing the shade! We're planning on being there maybe 4 or 5 days, probably in the middle of the week, so I'm hoping we'll miss the weekend warriors. Can't wait to get there and check it out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 14, 2002 Share Posted May 14, 2002 one thing to note, the city gets hot real soon....it is in the i-da-ho desert...... bring lotsa water and i got the guidebook if anyone needs to borrow it!! enjoy erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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