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Favorite routes

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Here are my picks...


1. As requested, these are MY FAVORITES

2. Some of these routes are hard (becasue I tend to get the most out of hard routes)

3. Some of these routes are in Oregon

4. Some of these routes are not technically part of the Cascades (but they're pretty close)

Fun Rock Trad: Zebra w/ Zion finish @ Smith -- Basically sport climbing w/ trad pro

Scary Rock Trad: Christian Brothers Traverse -- There's a rusty 1/4" bolt hanging on my wall that I pulled out (with my fingers) of one of the belays

Easy Rock Sport: Five Gallon Buckets @ Smith -- Too good to be true. As for BBQ the Pope, its good, but you guys should bring your hiking boots next time and try Screaming Yellow Zonkers

Committed Rock Sport: Monkey Space @ Smith -- Easiest free route up the monkey w/ big holds and big moves

"Big" Mountain: North Ridge, Mt Jefferson -- Jeff is (without a doubt) the most difficult Cascade summit over 10K ft. This route has everything: Crappy snow, crappy rock, crappy ice

Alpine: South Face, Mt Waddington -- Not in the Cascades, but its so cool, I think it should be an honorary member of the range

Coolest Scramble: Mt Thielsen -- what a summit!



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Good question Dan. I have been watching and thinking about it for a while. I have not begun to exaust the climbing in the Cascades so this is not very definative.

North Ridge of Baker with a direct finish onto the ice cap: This was my first encounter with technical "alpine" ice.

Three Fingers: has been a challenge both times attempted.(Success on the second attempt due to leaving a bandana hanging in the woods to mark the key traverse through the low cliffbands).

Static Point On-Line: Fabulous slab! I took a 30 footer on the 10b crux.

Boston Pk: The conditions we were climbing in were outragous! couldn't even see a shortened rope length. From the east side traverse ledges and ramps, we did 2 minor summits before we found the register. Finest register box I have seen to date (Damn Mazamas!)

Ice Cliff Glacier, Stuart: Incredible exposure, seracs tumbled all day. As I gazed up at the Girth Pillar I silently hoped to never be good enough to climb it (I don't think I have much to worry adout)

I believe that how I do a climb and the weather/time of year that I do it in makes all the difference in the world in how I think of a climb. (The entry 2 lines above ours in the Three Fingers register was from some crazies that had spent days getting there and had to tunnel 10 ft down through the snow to find the door)

I am certain that was a trip!

I am most proud of succeding/surviving in tough conditions (say, when a partner lays down and starts puking, 600 vertical feet shy of 14,400') (or when the intestinal infection got me 7 days after Baker, while I am standing on the summit of Del Campo)

To me it is much more than the aesthetic quality or difficulty that makes the route worthy, I have to be challenged by the experiance also.


ps-I don't need to be challenged by intestinal discomfort and Boston is by no means "classic"

[This message has been edited by Smoker (edited 12-09-2000).]

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