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Liberty Ridge questions


randygoat

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I might be trying the Liberty Ridge this coming May. I have a couple questions. One in May is the Bergscrund usually open and over hanging, or is it some what covered by snow?

 

The other is what to bring for a belay/insulated jacket. Is it too wet for down in May?Is the wet insulation propertys of synthetic worth the extra weight?

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Liberty ridge is one of my favorite climbs ever. The only problem we had was on the Carbon glacier getting around/over all the crevasses. In May you should be able to get across the Carbon more easily than us as we did it in late June. The rest of the route will have lots of snow on it too. Avalanche will be your main concern. Watch the chute off the thumb and rock fall from above the chute. The bergschrung at the bottom of the chute will probably be buried.

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You probably won't be able to tell if the schrund will be bad until May, it really depends on how the weather plays out this spring. The schrund was still pretty straight forward on June 6th this year and once it was overhanging, I read that some parties simply went around it instead of spending a bunch of time aiding up it, so keep that option in mind if it is sketchy.

 

Personally, I'd take the synthetic jacket and like Bug said, the avalanches would concern me most in May.

 

Have fun.

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catbirdseat said:

Have you seen this thread yet?

 

As Off_White put it, how newbie are you?

 

 

Catbirdseat, my 'Newbie" status is only for the Cascades. I've been climbing for 17-18 years, and 15 or so years on ice. Lead pretty solid grade WI4, and have done some altitude stuff in Ecuador [ reached 19'800 ft before bailing out].I have made 2 trips to Washington state, one to Mt. Olympus, and climbed the West Ridge of Forbidden and the Quien Sabe route on Sahale

 

I guess my questions are directed towards the generalities of yer area. I know the whats/hows / and whens in New England. Trying to get dialed in for the North West.

 

I know it is impossible to know exactly what to expect, just trying to get a feel for the norm.Like I said my'newbie' status is relative. bigdrink.gif

 

 

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randygoat said:

klenke said:

randygoat said:In May. does it rain much lower down? Up higher?
What? hahaha.gif

 

I take that as a solid ,YES tongue.gif

I was up at camp Muir (10K)last May with two newbies and it rained until about 10PM. That is not normal but always possible.

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