mountainbull Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Ice conditions on N. facing climbs are getting real good now. It may be the best we see all season. The North Face of Colonial Peak is in as of 2 days ago, but had 1' of fresh over the ice, and good sized spindrift avalanches coming down. We bailed from 6500' after getting hammered with a huge pile. This climb will take a big effort! The North Face of Pyramid Peak has lots of steep ice ( WI5 ) if you want to suffer the approach. The North Face of Big Four was climbed in a day this weekend with fat ice on the face for over 1000'. Lets hope conditions stay good! Go get some Alpine Candy! Eric M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Sweet! Nice try on Colonial. What route were you attemping? How long did the approach take (looks fun). Wish these conditios would last all spring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Who did Big Four? Matt Perkins and I tried it last winter, but took too much time climbing the snow-covered rock headwall, and the snow beyond that was deep and mushy. We bailed after about 1,000 of post-holing, at the base of the N. Rib proper, more or less. Good effort whomever it was. Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Who did Big Four? Matt Perkins and I tried it last winter, but took too much time climbing the snow-covered rock headwall, and the snow beyond that was deep and mushy. We bailed after about 1,000 of vigorous post-holing, at the base of the N. Rib proper, more or less. Good effort whomever it was. Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainbull Posted February 28, 2002 Author Share Posted February 28, 2002 We were attempting Watusi Rodeo, Twight & Bebies route from 1984. There are several ice lines on the face, as well as on Pyramid. The basin between the two peaks is a huge avalanche valley. I saw some of the longest debris piles I have ever witnessed in the Cascades, likely from that rain event last week. MB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainbull Posted February 28, 2002 Author Share Posted February 28, 2002 I believe it was Matt P, and Dan Aylward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Dan and I were the ones on Big Four. Read his trip report in the North Cascades section. Big Four rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 look at the tiny little trees down at the bottom right hand corner.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Are those bonzai trees? You sure do like the Judge don't you. [ 02-28-2002: Message edited by: vegetablebelay ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 1, 2002 Share Posted March 1, 2002 Those are specialized vegetablebelaytrees! The Judge is cool. The Judge is the Mt. Index of the Fraser Valley except it is bigger and climbed less. Maybe that should be the Mt Fury of the Fraser Valley..... Judge Howay I always had it back of my list but now it is in the coveted OBJECTIVES FOR 2002 section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted March 1, 2002 Share Posted March 1, 2002 I think I've seen about 5 awesome shots of it from you by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 1, 2002 Share Posted March 1, 2002 Ok I confess the "Friends of Mt. Judge Howay Society" is planning to start a ferry boat service up the lake and they are paying me to generate interest in it... I get a free ride if they sign up more than 30 clients. It's all [ 02-28-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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