adrianburke Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 I'm thinking of going up the East ridge and down the West ridge of Forbidden next weekend. Anyone know if there is fresh snow on the route or if it is clear? Any other route conditions beta? Adrian Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 Yes, there is fresh snow. Last Thursday it was about 4 inches on the talus in Boston basin. Quote
Tod Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 Looking from the north there was still some "fresh" snow hanging around the north side of Forbidden. Higher peaks didn't seem to be holding anything or much on the south sides and with good weather this week I doubt there will be any snow except for in shaded areas near the summit. Quote
Ade Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 Met some guys in Leavenworth on Friday (19th) who'd been weathered off that morning so my guess is that there was more snow up high this weekend. If it stays clear and warm for a few days it should clear. Quote
wdietsch Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 Ade said: Met some guys in Leavenworth on Friday (19th) who'd been weathered off that morning so my guess is that there was more snow up high this weekend. If it stays clear and warm for a few days it should clear. sounds like the two dudes TG, RBW1966 and I chatted with @ the Boston Basin trailhead ... they mentioned heading to SCW or Prusik ... driving a diesel Dodge 2500 xtra cab .... if so I wouldn't say they got "weathered off" (at our recomendation, the two we talked with never made it out of the parking lot) as for ourselves, well it was wet .... very wet ..... see TG's post above Quote
adrianburke Posted October 2, 2003 Author Posted October 2, 2003 In the end, there was not a trace of snow on the climb, other than a patch or two on the Northside descent ledges. We climbed it car-to-car last Saturday. Drove in Friday night from Vancouver (BC), got up at 4AM in the parking lot, hiking by 4:45. The hike up past Boston Basin and up the East side of the glacier to the base of the gendarme took us until 10:30 or so. There were two parties on the route ahead of us (Hi Capt. Caveman!) but everyone moved along relatively smoothly. On the summit by 2:30, then down and across the north face and back to the car by 9PM. Drove home to Vancouver and finally got to sleep at 2AM. LONG DAY! The climbing was very fun, easy climbing on exposed knife-edged ridge, with lots of blocks and gendarmes to climb up, over and around. You could really go many different ways. Spectacular views all the way South past Glacier Peak to Rainier. The hike in was a bit much - it would have been less of a grunt to hike up and sleep in the basin - but then you take more gear, so it's hard to say which is worth doing more. Want to go back and do the Torment-Forbidden traverse next. That looks fun (though it would be a lot more fun when the glaciers are less shattered and crevassed!). Adrian Quote
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