willstrickland Posted February 20, 2002 Posted February 20, 2002 Resolution Arete V 5.11+ Red Rocks, NV Anybody done it? Beta (free not aid) for the roof? Suggested rack? Any "wish I knew that before I did it" beta? Quote
Lambone Posted February 20, 2002 Posted February 20, 2002 Another question: How is Red Rocks in late march. Is it hot, cold, windy Also, suggestions for good "girlfriend routes" would be cool. Thanks! Quote
dberdinka Posted February 20, 2002 Posted February 20, 2002 Lambone, Late March last year was perfect. Clear, calm and 70 degrees. Just like everywhere else look for the crowds of people to find the "significant other who just started climbing" (I'm so PC) routes. A few standard classics are Cat in the HatDark ShadowsFrogland Definitely check out the Necromancer Wall for a set of great single pitch routes, first pitch of Frigidair Buttress is also good and in the same area. I've been told that there are some stellar 2-3 pitch 5.6-5.7s directly across the Black Velvet Canyon from a Dream of Wild Turkeys etc. They've never been written up in a guide so lack the crowds. A very strong climber was raving about it after getting crowded off any of the classics in there. Black Dagger is a pretty awesome trip that seemed sorta commiting for a 6 pitch 5.7+. Definitely worth doing. Quote
Lambone Posted February 20, 2002 Posted February 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: e "significant other who just started climbing" Right on, good call Thanks! Quote
willstrickland Posted February 20, 2002 Author Posted February 20, 2002 'Bone: Solar Slab Gully (5.3, 4p) to Solar Slab (5.6, 6-9 pitches) can rap off of the new rap anchors on the route Johnny Vegas) Cat in the Hat (5.6+, 6p) Black Dagger (5.7+, 8 pitches including the 300' scramble) Olive Oil (5.7, 5-7p) Black Magic (5.8, 4p) Frogland (5.8-,I think we did it in 5p?)Physical Graffiti (5.7, awesome night climb with Vegas views) Tunnel Vision (5.7, Did this one in 6p?) Quote
Lambone Posted February 20, 2002 Posted February 20, 2002 Right on! Is it worth going if we only have four days? We would probably do one or two multi pitch routes, and spend a couple of days sport craggin. The one time I've been there we did Crimson Chrysalis...what an awsome route! Quote
MATT_B Posted February 20, 2002 Posted February 20, 2002 I was there about 6 years ago and for the most part we had very good weather. It rained the day before we got there and the rock was still a little soft so we lost a half day (arrived in the afternoon) waiting for things to dry out. The rule of thunb is wait at least 24 hours to climb after rain otherwise the sandstone will just fall apart. We had about 7 days with temps in the 70's to 80's. One day was very windy but the rest where calm. Our last day was cold, cloudy and threadening rain. We could see that it had snowed in the higher elevations of the canyons. Driving home that night we were in snow most the way to Reno. The skys cleared and there was a full moon lighting up the desert with a fresh blanket of snow!!!!!! Any way my point is the weather can be very good but have a contingency plan just incase. As far as resolutin arete, I dont know but would love to hear a trip report. If I ever get my lazy ass back in shape it is a route I have always wanted to do. Quote
willstrickland Posted February 20, 2002 Author Posted February 20, 2002 No prob there Lambone, 4 days is plenty worth it, especially with the cheap flights/hotel/food. I just basically am after some beta for the crux roof, how long and what size, any hidden or sucker face holds under the roof. Everything I've heard indicates about a 6ft roof hands and off fingers to a big exit jug. Supposed to be the longest route at RR with about 20 pitches. Should give us a great secondary goal and warm-up for Rainbow. Two big routes in a week will be plenty, and I'm sure with the logistics involved will only give us about two or three free days. Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted February 21, 2002 Posted February 21, 2002 Friend of a friend just got back and said Vegas was 70 and sunny. Red rocks sport climbs will be a few degrees cooler. The canyon temps will be cooler still, and cold if not in the sun. Quote
Gerg Posted February 21, 2002 Posted February 21, 2002 Lambone,Four days, while not enough time to tick too many climbs, is still worth the trip. Last time I went, I was only there for 2 days in mid-February--did Tunnel Vision one dayand hiked way past Cat in the Hat on accident and blew the second day. Even so, it was totally worth it. Greg Quote
specialed Posted February 21, 2002 Posted February 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone:[QB]Right on! Is it worth going if we only have four days? QB] Is that because you're spending the other two weeks of your trip hanging in Vegas, playing slots, and going to see Elvis impersonators and Tom Jones shows? Quote
Lambone Posted February 21, 2002 Posted February 21, 2002 No, it's cause Chrysten has a real job. Quote
chris_w Posted February 21, 2002 Posted February 21, 2002 I have gone to Red Rock's twice in late march and Had perfect weather both times. I am trying to set up a time this march to head there again. Another recomended climb is Crimson Chrysalis III 5.8+ (9 pitches) I only got half way up becuase my partner was feeling sick. I think he ate too much at the buffet the night before. The route goes up the crack off to the right on the face.http://4.60.212.144/Climbing/US/Nevada/Crimson_Chrysalis/Crimson1L.jpg chris [ 02-20-2002: Message edited by: chris_w ] Quote
Lambone Posted February 21, 2002 Posted February 21, 2002 Ok now somebody answer wills question....sorry will! Quote
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