layton Posted September 1, 2003 Share Posted September 1, 2003 the extra "b" was a typo. Climbed the NW corner of NEWS in the Ranch Room yesterday.It would've been the Beaver but there was no popcorn. Kept waiting for the waitress to come by at the belay. Helicopters were circling cows overhead getting that natural smoke flavor for the Oh Boy! Alberto jerky packs. Necronomicon got miners lung, but I had been training for this day by smoking many cigarettes pre-climb so I was perfectly acclimatized. I did feel dizy a couple times. Couldn't see the 4 horsemen drawing neigh, but it was low visibilbity. Basically WA pass was a smoke chocked bar room, couldn't see shit. Happened fast, cuz monday there was very good visibility and no smoke to be seen. As for the climb. It , but Necro hated it. Nelson is missing a pitch in his guidebook. Use the beckey guide if you want the correct topo. It doesn't matter concidering it's painfully obvious where to go, but a little disheartening when you think you've done the crux and you haven't. BTW, it's not that hard, and all you need is 2 #4 cams or one #4 and a #4.5. I used a similar size to a #4.5 camalot, but a flexible friend version. what a piece of shit! I can't even describe what a worthless cam this fucking shit job is. Don't but em. All and all a fun, but smokey, climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted September 1, 2003 Share Posted September 1, 2003 Doubleplusstupid design allows for maximum rotation into deep cracks. Trigger pinches fingers, difficult to actuate. "Perma-Cam" feature allows for trigger wires to wrap around the outside of cam lobes, making use impossible. Cam lobes capable of "meta-rotation", a synthesis of all dangerous cam lobe over-rotation potentialities for those beyond dangerous placement. EEEEEVIL!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 Necronomicon said: Doubleplusstupid design allows for maximum rotation into deep cracks. Trigger pinches fingers, difficult to actuate. "Perma-Cam" feature allows for trigger wires to wrap around the outside of cam lobes, making use impossible. Cam lobes capable of "meta-rotation", a synthesis of all dangerous cam lobe over-rotation potentialities for those beyond dangerous placement. EEEEEVIL!!!!!!!! Camalots are the shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 I have one and I love it. Never had a problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babnik Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 Sphinx said: Necronomicon said: Doubleplusstupid design allows for maximum rotation into deep cracks. Trigger pinches fingers, difficult to actuate. "Perma-Cam" feature allows for trigger wires to wrap around the outside of cam lobes, making use impossible. Cam lobes capable of "meta-rotation", a synthesis of all dangerous cam lobe over-rotation potentialities for those beyond dangerous placement. EEEEEVIL!!!!!!!! Camalots are the shit. and they are heavy as shit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 hey mike i will give you 10$ for the piece of shit cam that you hate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 2, 2003 Author Share Posted September 2, 2003 I still hate it, but it saves my ass from decking. $10 doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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