bigwalling Posted August 17, 2003 Posted August 17, 2003 I'm planning on getting into the realm of alpine climbing this year. I don't really know what to get. I've come to learn that the most expensive isn't always the best. I'm planning on doing stuff like Chair Peak and Dragontail. So what would you reccomend for: -boots -axes -crampons -ice/snow pro -other things -pack thanks in advance! I might need partners too this winter too Quote
cracked Posted August 17, 2003 Posted August 17, 2003 bigwalling said: I'm planning on getting into the realm of alpine climbing this year. I don't really know what to get. I've come to learn that the most expensive isn't always the best. I'm planning on doing stuff like Chair Peak and Dragontail. So what would you reccomend for: -boots -axes -crampons -ice/snow pro -other things -pack thanks in advance! I might need partners too this winter too Boots: light, insulated, leathers. Ex: Sportiva Trango Ice series, whatever their latest incarnation is. Or Scarpa Freney, or Freney XT. Or something comparable. You definitely want leather (or synthetic), but keep it light and nimble. Some insulation, but you don't need a hell of a lot. Don't be a mountie and buy huge plastics, they aren't worth it. Tools: go for some moderately curved all-around tools, like Charlet Axar, BD Rage, etc. If you're on a budget: BD Shrike. These type of tools are good for alpine, but still good on water ice. Crampons. 12-point, semi-step in or full step in, horizontal frame. I've read a bunch of good things about BD Sabertooth. I've got Grivel G-12s, and I'm pretty happy with them. Semi is more versatile, more reliable. Less cool, though. Pro: a few screws, a few pickets, rock gear. It doesn't take much. There usually isn't much pro, anyways. A set of nuts, a few cams, a few screws, some slings, and you're set. The most expensive isn't always the best, but in general, you do get what you pay for. Buy good tools, boots, and poons. It's worth it. Oh, get a real helmet, not one of those crappy foam things. Hard plastic, my favorite is BD Half Dome. Clothing: long underwear, light windshell (like marmot driclime). Light hardshell (eg Precip or comparable). Insulated jacket (synthetic, Golite is cheap but good). Pack: something light, preferably no frame, 2000-3000 cubic inches. Not too many extras. Add a harness and belay device, cordellette, and you're set. Have fun. Quote
Dru Posted August 18, 2003 Posted August 18, 2003 bigwalling said: I'm planning on getting into the realm of alpine climbing this year. I don't really know what to get. I've come to learn that the most expensive isn't always the best. I'm planning on doing stuff like Chair Peak and Dragontail. So what would you reccomend for: -boots -axes -crampons -ice/snow pro -other things -pack thanks in advance! I might need partners too this winter too Whatever you can get pro-deal or bro-deal on is the best, hands down. Quote
Billygoat Posted August 18, 2003 Posted August 18, 2003 GU, Landjaeger, Hydrocodone, Glucosamine, Darvocet, Ambien, Tylenol 3 Quote
fern Posted August 18, 2003 Posted August 18, 2003 do you have really big feet? If you are getting both new boots and crampons you should consider doing some experimenting to find a combination that works. I have found that some crampons styles adjust poorly to fit certain boots in extreme sizes. I had to look around for a good fit for my tiny boots, and my friend also had difficulty finding a good fit for his size 13s. Quote
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