scot'teryx Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Why the hell would anyone consider this route? I don't have any idea, but MysticNacho, myself, and Aaron decided to go try it out last saturday since I had heard from a few people that you can get in about 1.5 pitches of 5.6 in a dihedral or something like that. A short approach and good views sounded enticing, especially the late start we were able to make. (TH @ 12 noon) The trail was packed as always, and once we got below the saddle we veered left and gained the Frozen lake plateau, which is not frozen this year. The granite up in this area is so awesome, pearly white, and you can't see it from anywhere on the trail system. Once up there the north face seems imposing, and we tried to pick the appropriate line. We scrambled up some slabs bypassing a ton of junk and trash, literally a ton! Before we knew it we were directly beneath the Lookout Tower and we spotted a line that looked pretty fun. Our assumption was wrong. I won the lead and headed out with my trango boots, and before I knew it it was harder than expected. The little edges did not work too well with my boots, so I continued up this dirty and brushy area to a belay. I brought the other 2 guys up and the Aaron led the last bit out that was a dirty 5.8 hand crack that could be sweet if it was clean, and then an offwidth chimney that brought us to the summit and got to the belay at the lookout tower. During the last pitch we had an apple core thrown down at us and a few rocks tthat wizzed by our heads. I must say that we picked the worst line up the face, and when we were up there I noticed plenty of sweet cracks that could be sent if cleaned. Has anyone else out there spied this area before? Here's Nachoguy at the belay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 What's that about the 80th time you've climbed that peak? So close to Everett. So close to your home. If you should happen to die in the mountains, I promise to try and get that peak renamed after you. Won't go anywhere, I know, but it'd be the nice thing to do for you post mortem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 15, 2003 Author Share Posted August 15, 2003 It's only the 2nd time ive been up there this year if you can believe that, the last time was january i think and i was skiing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Did the whole pitch under the lookout smell like piss? Just wondering..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 15, 2003 Author Share Posted August 15, 2003 It smelled pretty nasty actually, but that's because we found andrew irvine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomic Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Big deal on your line. Messner did it solo in '82 w/o supplemental oxygen. I think he hallucinated, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainierwon Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 scot'teryx said: During the last pitch we had an apple core thrown down at us and a few rocks tthat wizzed by our heads. Doh! sorry dude, I didn't think there was anyone down there . When is your Pilchuck guide coming out ? -J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteTrash Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Hey, I recognize that crack. Me and all my buddies call that crap crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 holy fuckin A, he climbed the Toilet Route some people are born gumbys just can't shake the stigma (that's stigma, Erik, not smegma) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 In fact, in the picture, Nacho looks like he's looking up at somebody peeing off the railing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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