jade Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 I want to try for the Bugs next summer... what kind of training do you recommend? What kind of experience, ideally should you have mountaineering techniques, alpine climbing... I realize that the hike in can be a challenge. Any help would be appreciated. Quote
snoboy Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 Climb lots. Climb some more... Do enchainments. Like Diedre and Banana Peel and Sparrow. Learn to french free. Get your systems dialed. You should be able to swap leads in no time flat. Go climb some steep snow, learn to self arrest and glissade. Go somewhere scary and deal with it. Get out and do lots of 3rd and 4th class routes in the beginning of the summer. The ability to move quickly and safely over that sort of terrain will serve you well in the Bugs. The hike in is a mental challenge. Your pack will be too heavy. Buy the new guidebook and start dreaming. Quote
jordop Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 From the stories I am hearin here and elswhere, i'd say a trip to Disneyland would be a good way to psyche up. See also thread re: Squamish linkups: a wicked training idea: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=224858&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 Quote
Winter Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 Snoboy hit the nail on the head. Get comfortable with crevasse crossings, and get comfortable climbing unroped or simulclimbing on moderate terrain. Cardio conditioning always helps. There is plenty of easy climbing if you're not pushing the grades, so you don't need to spend tons of time thrashing up 5.10 cracks. It all depends on what you want to do. Quote
fern Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 -> build gear anchors quickly -> rappel/downclimb efficiently -> deal with loose rock (don't knock stuff down on others) -> climb easy stuff with a pack in boots fast Quote
Dru Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 sit in a hut for a week while it rains and snows outside, and try to keep your psyche motivated... hook up a car battery to your tongue to prepare for lightning strikes... cover yourself with cheese and hang out down by the grain terminals to prepare for the snaffle attacks - or watch Willard a few times Quote
Dru Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 on a more serious note the routes in the Bugs are not notably longer or harder than routes in the Coast Mts and Cascades, just in a glaciated area at high altitude. dont make the Bugaboos your first ever alpine climbs. before you go, climb a bunch of local stuff like: East Ridge of Rexford (except the Bugabbos wont have tree climbing pitches) link up of the two Nesakwatch Spires by any routes West Ridge of Matier NW Ridge of Joffre Lillarete on Athelstan west face of Overseer. east ridge of Alpha standard route on Tantalus south face of Viennese or south ridge of Grainger any ridge of Forbidden in WA Then when you go to Bugabbos be prepared for less of the "alpine" mystique like loose rock, long approaches, stinging insects, and more pure rock climbing (with thunderstorms and rockfall and glaciated approaches and snaffles) Quote
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