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Posted

"Mixed climbing" in Oregon can often mean a combination of consolidated snow, rime, rock of widely varying quality, sword ferns, tag alders, high angle dirt and barely congealed volcanic mud - especially if your year-round quest is for always new climbing within day range of Portland. There is one essential instrument for full self-expression in this strangely rewarding medium (trash climbing) ...

 

A couple of the old-timers (Jeff T., Mike S.) have these old Camp hammers with short 35-40cm) ash handles, a piton head on one side and a nice long "trash" (ice) pick on the other: a tool designed in days before beta, when climbers would take a direct route to any objective picked from the skyline.

 

I have been watching for years, and maybe one will show up at the annual Mazama used gear sale every couple years, but Schoen always beats me to it anyway. ANYBODY??? OK, I could break down and consume a late-model third tool, but you gotta understand my style's at stake here. Any & all leads deeply appreciated.

 

- XC

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Posted

what you want was called an 'alpine hammer'. chouinard made em in the early seveties but for us-based gear makers i havent seen one like that since the forrest moljinar (sp?). you can always just get a brick layers hammer and trim the pick end. fuckin cheap that way too.

Posted
lummox said:

what you want was called an 'alpine hammer'. chouinard made em in the early seveties but for us-based gear makers i havent seen one like that since the forrest moljinar (sp?). you can always just get a brick layers hammer and trim the pick end. fuckin cheap that way too.

Yes, and no. The tool was the standard tiny Chouinard alpine/crag hammer,(see here http://climbaz.com/chouinard72/ch_page30.html) but had a replaceable pick. They had a standard alpine pick available, but also had several "cleaning" picks available. I know a store that still had some of the replaceable picks (no hammers) as of last year. The hammers show up a couple times a month on eBay.

 

Posted

To see the page, right click on the image and click properties. You can then funk around with the URL until you find out where the image came from.

 

I also know a certain someone who has a trash hammer. Chounard I believe. Not worth lugging up into the mountains but definately worth looking at sitting in the corner of a dining room.

 

I'd say get one of the two I posted. Hell, get both and you have an armory with your ice tools.

Posted
Szyjakowski said:

Crackbolter said:

Here is my hammer:

e30.gif

 

Now it probably isn't the best for ice but it is great for grubbing cracks, nailing or tapping on the handdrill.

nice geologist hammer you got there sonny! bigdrink.gif

 

It's my scientific speciality!

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