bchaps Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 I'm going to the valley in a couple weeks to do my first big walls and came across a problem. I was looking at the BD Skylounge and when I put the fly on, there were no doors/ventilation. How in the world would you cook, even breathe after a few hours... I have not been able to find a bobshelter with a fly here locally, so I cannot compare them. (It has a window, but does not open) I'm curious what everyone here does? bivysack? The dude at marmot recommended to put a custom door/screen put on. They also brought out an expensive bibler big wall tent that fit quite well in the ledge and was very logically designed, but expensive. Thanks for all your help! bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 My Fish ledge has two very big vents on it that get a cross draft. Most people don't cook on a wall by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 bchaps said: I'm going to the valley in a couple weeks to do my first big walls and came across a problem. I was looking at the BD Skylounge and when I put the fly on, there were no doors/ventilation. How in the world would you cook, even breathe after a few hours... I have not been able to find a bobshelter with a fly here locally, so I cannot compare them. (It has a window, but does not open) I'm curious what everyone here does? bivysack? The dude at marmot recommended to put a custom door/screen put on. They also brought out an expensive bibler big wall tent that fit quite well in the ledge and was very logically designed, but expensive. Thanks for all your help! bill i suggest you try routes that dont require a portaledge. and stop listening to 'The dude at marmot'. and try to carry as little shit as possible. youll go much faster if the second jugs with a pack on (which has the benefit of being so fucking miserable youll be way hungry to get on the sharp end). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 Bill, Don't worry...most likely your fly will rest in the bottom of the haulbag. IF you do have to pull it out, you will be thankful that there are no vents, or extra seams/doors that may leak. Storms come in hard and fast in the valley. You want something water tight that will work for the night. Don't worry about breathablility, everything WILL be wet anyway. Forget about cooking, cold Spaggetti O's are the order of the day. Now if it was an expidition up some alpine wall it would be different. But for the valley where you need quick bomber protectin, Urathane coated flys are all you need. Have fun, good luck...think up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bchaps Posted August 10, 2003 Author Share Posted August 10, 2003 Thanks for all the info. I think from what I've gathered here, I won't get a fly and go with the bivy sack. Much cheaper option too! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Bill, I'd becareful with that plan. Figure about $15,000+ to the Park Service should you need a rescue and not have a rainfly. It's happened several times in the past. If you do go without, either stick to the steep side...the Trip and Zodiac are well sheltered..., or blast up the Nose in a quick three days. But don't get caught in a watercourse. Consider a bivi sac worthless should you get caught in a full on storm on the Captain, you will want...and need a real shelter. But in mid-August all you should run into are afternoon thunderstorms....unless you are unlucky or just plain foolish enogh to charge up in front of a pacific storm. on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Lambone said: I'd be careful with that plan. Figure about $15,000+ to the Park Service should you need a rescue and not have a rainfly. It's happened several times in the past. names and dates. cough em up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 ...tunnel vents would probably cost about twenty bucks apiece if you get friendly with a seamstress... also the fly is 350, and the Bibler Big Wall I tent is on sale for a only little over one hundred more than that- it would also be a fully functional big muntains shelter, with ground access holes even! - bchamps, we discussed the alpine big wall options and versatility of the I-tent, versus the portaledge fly with nothing- looking at spending an extra one hundred bucks to get a killer tent on top of that was a viable, worthy option for a well rounded mountaineer looking to get the most bang for the buck- the dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bchaps Posted August 11, 2003 Author Share Posted August 11, 2003 Beck, your "The Dude"? Whoa! I'm still pulling my hair out to figure out what's best. I don't have a job so funding is limited. I've been thinking more about the routes I am planning on doing and 2 (Washington Column and Leaning Tower) do not require a ledge - although the Prow will, S face won't. The Nose can be done without it, although it is sometimes soo crowded, one would certainly be advantageous. Lurking fear would need a ledge though. I think I am going to hold off getting a ledge. Maybe pick a used one up in the valley. bill Thanks for all the different views and opinions everyone!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT_B Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 bchaps I assume this is your first (or close to) attempt at a wall. If so I would suggest forgetting about the ledge for now. It is one more cluster-f than you need. There are plenty of walls in the valley that you don't need a ledge for. You can do the prow with out a ledge fairly easily. Skull queen usually does not see too much traffic and is a good alternate to the south face. Regular route on half dome is another good option. I did several walls before I ever used a protaledge. Save your money for now. Do a few walls and get you climbing systems down cold. Worry about a ledge later. That being said, you will still need solid bombproof storm gear. Who cares if the NPS slaps a fine on you (yes it has happend) for not having the proper equipment if your dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 SnailEye said: That being said, you will still need solid bombproof storm gear. grundens. get the shit up here at a fisherman supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 (edited) lummox said: Lambone said: I'd be careful with that plan. Figure about $15,000+ to the Park Service should you need a rescue and not have a rainfly. It's happened several times in the past. names and dates. cough em up. dude I don't know their names or exact dates. a few years back some Euro's were caught up on the Shield with no fly and charged. Last fall a Brit took a bad fall, got hurt...and the Tool tried to charge him because he didn't have bivi gear. He was doing it in a push. If you want to hear about all the dead people just look it up in Accidents... I just think it's dumb to go up there in standard "slow-heavy" style without a fly. Sure if you are doinging the Nose, Lurking Fear, Salathe, or TD, or something with natural ledges in 3 days yes...but it's a big gamble to try to call the weather 1 week out and get stuck in a storm near the top. It has happened to several of my buddies and myself and we were damn glad to have a rainfly...that's all I'm getting at. Still, Leaning Tower sans ledge is a great first wall. Edited August 12, 2003 by Lambone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 bchaps - you may be able to pick up a ledge in the valley cheap, but there is also a service that rents them for about $40/day I think. If you want to buy a used ledge, I got a great deal on a ledge & fly in excellent condition at the Wilderness Exchange in Berkeley. An A-5 double with fly for under $500. It could be worthwhile to call them to see if they have anything in the shop (they're a 2nd Ascent type store) and go by there if they do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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