mmcmurra Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 Sat. evening I led and then set up a TR on Burgers & Fries. All of our party of 4 climbed it, then we let a party of 3 women climb it. Then we pulled the rope, and left the anchor for less than 20 min before 2 of our party walked around to practice rapping from it. When they arrived, there was no anchor; they assumed someone else in our party must have cleaned it, so they set up another and rapped, while we used other ropes to lead and TR other climbs. Besides the three women, two guys with a sweet Samoyid dog set up a TR in between B&F and Wisecrack, and a lone solo climber traversed around for a while. Just before dark some guys showed up at the top to try to see Mars rise above the Chief. The anchor that disappeared was a gray Web-O-lette, three locking biners, and a backup red cordelette with a locking and non-locking biner (overkill, I know, but for the benefit of a beginner in our party). I want to believe that with all the communal rope-sharing, there was some misunderstanding and someone ended up with my gear by mistake, but I realize theft is a likely explanation. I ran back to the crag Sunday a.m. when we realized what happened, but no one there had found anything. Anyone have any useful info? I'd appreciate it. Thanks, Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 that's pretty shitty. hopefully it was a mistake. this weekend's been rather crazy here. (canadian holiday today.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 sorry about your lost gear. in reference to burgers and fries however, the climbers access cttee spent a long time in negotiations with squamish council and the residents keeping that area open. they agreed to limit climbing there to mornings and afternoons. it works; the neighbours are happy. so please don't climb there in the evenings and try not to make lots of noise, etc. anywhere else in the bluffs is fine. i think this is mentioned in the guidebook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmcmurra Posted August 10, 2003 Author Share Posted August 10, 2003 jefffski said: so please don't climb there in the evenings and try not to make lots of noise, etc. anywhere else in the bluffs is fine. i think this is mentioned in the guidebook. Yikes! I didn't realize that! I knew the mornings were sensitive, but hadn't even thought about before dark. We were very quiet and spent little time at the top of the cliff (too little, apparently, given the gear loss), but thanks for the heads up, I'll be more aware next time. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 i wish there was some signage to let people know. it's so easy to go to a new area and break the unwritten code. there is one very mean resident there who has been uncooperative (chopping bolts etc). i can't wonder if it's him. clearly you were not deserving of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 There is a sign at the parking lot, and at the base of Burgers and Fries as you are approaching from the parking lot, so the code isn't exactly "unwritten," it's also in the front of the Squamish Guidebook. As for the mean resident... that would be me. I was going to replace some of the anchors, but after a lengthy chat with Dwayner, I saw the error in my ways, and decided to chop all the old sissy TR anchors. JUST KIDDING! Actually the good news is that The "meanie" has recently moved, and the new people in that house, while not climbers, are quite friendly, and are interested in trying out the sport. Probably wasn't him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 that is such good news. the meanie chopped bolts about 3 times, even after cacbc had reached agreement with squamish. hope the issues on lower malamute, alexis and hot cherry are resolved soon too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 We are going wayyyy OT here, but it's cc right Alexis will be settled up soon. The appropriate signs are getting a clear coat, and the hangers and chains are on the way too. As soon as they are all installed, there will once agaiin be climbing at Alexis. Hot Cherry is unlikey, and so is the Malemute (lower). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jade Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 NOT to change the subject... but pulllleeeezz post somewhere when Alexis is open again. I have been eyeing some routes for a couple of summers now. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 check out casbc.bivouac.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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