Bardean

[specialed]

A little late, but... LAST weekend me and Eric W. went to climb the Hidden Pillar on Bardean in the Chehalis Range.

Got lost on the drive in but luckily some campers had a map from which we were able to find the right road and determine that McClane's description and map were WRONG.

Drove up the most fucked up road, trouncing my truck in the process, going over these heinous tank traps. I was like "What was that!!! My bumper??" And Eric's like: "Naah man, you lost your bumper like five minutes ago.

Anyway, finally get to the trailhead and, of course, in classic Canadian style the trail is maintained immaculately, though you need a fuckin tank to get to it.

We crank out the "7-8 hr." approach in 4.5 hrs and endure a cold bivy under the stars. Get up next morning and head to the east side of Bardean to get on the route. Do some sketchy firm snow climbing with lightweight hiking boots and no 'poons (left 'em at the car to save weight), but the obvious approach is blocked on both sides by gaping crevasses. No dice. Approach from the bottom is blocked by huge serace. Oh well, fuck it, lets do the Tuning Fork route instead because we can get to it, and Dru says its WAY GOOD.

Get off route on the 3rd class section, simul-climb 5.9 in our hikers, then get back "on route" finally. Then we decide the route sucks ass because its all wandering around this non-descript face, with cracks that go nowhere and no natural line to follow. Bu we figure we'd better finish the route.

We pitched out about three pitches up to 5.10 and simuled the rest up to 5.9. Finally top out after I deck onto a ledge after attempting to run out a dirty 5,10 finger crack. But only scrapes and bruises on my elbows to show for it.

The view from the top rocks though. We can see about every peak in Washington and B.C. and the coast. It was cool.

Long but uneventful descent down and a somewhat less cold bivy that night and we wake up to rain. Bail out of there early and are drinking beer at the car by 11:00. The creek draining that cirque wa so clean and clear, it was rad.

[AlpineK]

Way to pull through!