tradchica Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 So I heard the bypass glacier slid saturday, sunday, and monday(?); any confirmations as to what It looks like now. Planning on going up early next week ,wondering if the standard approach to the notch will be passable. If the bypass glacier did slide, do I need an ice axe? Also besides the pitch 14 bivy and the bivy right below the top (sheraton slesse), are any of those other belay ledges in the topos spacious enough for a comfortable bivy? Any water, snow, on route? thanks for any info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 I was up at Rexford Thurs. Looking across at whats left of the pocket glacier I'd say it slid. Not much left now. I wouldn't bring pons or an axe. Serious turkey shoot crossing the slabs though. Looked like there might still be snow on the N side of the buttress at 1/3rd -1/2 height, hard to say fer sure but that would be my guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 i did the route early season a few years back. the glacier was there, so i cant say about the aproach without it. there was water at the top of the becky bypass pitches which we did because the direct route was not obvious. after the 400 or 500 feet of 3rd and 4th class that leads to the upper pitches there is a good bivy (p 17 in nelsons guide i think). there are other bivy ledges on the upper part of the route -- other than the sheraton slesse. keep going if it is getting dark-- you will find plenty of ledges up high. fantastic route. scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 just got back from slesse. most of the pocket glacier has slid off. you can cross to the bypass without poons or axe HOWEVER there IS still some ice left above the traverse at base of east face. LOOK OUT cause it falls off randomly and would kill ya like a bug hitting a windshield. seems to start sliding around the timew sun hits the base of the face like 6:30-7:00 AM so get across to the buttress by then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 snow on top. apparently none left on the mid height bivi (it was reported to me) although i'd guess there might be a little bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradchica Posted July 28, 2003 Author Share Posted July 28, 2003 right on y'all, thanks for the great beta. boonecounty or I will post a tr when we get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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