TR-able 10bcd's at Index

[Crackbolter]

Did anyone mention Dr Sniff from Princely Ambitions?

 

Good 5.10d route.

[Alex]

is that the one that goes up and left from p1 start, between princely and white rabbit? looks cool!

[Crackbolter]

Dr Sniff leaves the belay at the top of the first pitch of Princely. You work right to a thin crack and enter a slot which presents a fun layback or grovel into the slot. It then meets back up with the top of Pricely again which is why I think it would be a good toprope. It might need one directional just above the crux although I don't think you would swing far. Someone was also kind enough to replace my manky slings with chains and new bolts. The slings I left were there since 96' up until last year I think. Now there are wonderful and safe bolts and chains.

[Crackbolter]

The other 5.10 would be Gorilla My Dreams. If you haven't lead it yet, you should consider it a necessity after toping out on the lower wall left.

[ScottP]

Greg_W said:

I TR'd that corner at the base of the GNS the other day. I think Daryl calls it .10c in his book, but it has no name. It was real fun: tiny finger locks and some brutal stemming. It's only about 30' tall, but it was fun.

 

I watched in amazement as some egghead type soloed that corner in mt. boots (and no chalk)about 10 years ago. I took several falls before I got it in rock shoes (and copious chalk.)