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Posted

the east face of mt. triumph has one recorded route (a 5.9 climb by d/c). after looking at the face, i believe that this is a relatively short route on the far left side and doesn't tackle the direct east face. i could be wrong. is the direct east face still unclimbed? tom thomas was killed in '87 or '88 while attempting to solo the east face---maybe in the area of the large dihedral/roof in mid-face since i recall possibly seeing a haul bag there while i was on the ne ridge in '88. do any of you tough guys or gals have more info on this expanse of compact rock? thanks.

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Posted

Rat: I was just up there, and while I didn't give the face a serious scope (too big a mouthful for me), the three folks who shared our bivy and went on do the N Face Central Rib gave it a good looking over. They thought there were some intriguing features, but after doing their route they seemed skeptical about the rock quality and the number of scars on the wall. One of them had been friends with Tom, so that may have factored in as well. Their names were Roger, Blair, and Tom, so if that rings any bells you might try picking their brains.

Posted

thanks for the info. the face definitely has that chossy rock scarred look to it---maybe that's why doorish and company didn't go back for a more direct line. add it to the list of unsolved cascade rubble piles?

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